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Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


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Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Martha Graham Marni

Godfrey Deeny
February 28th, 2011 @ 10:40 AM - Milan

The most influential collection of the Milan season has to go to Marni, whose striking silhouette, color palette, triple-deck footwear and overall attitude marked it out as the bellwether show of the Italian season.

There's been a big return to grandeur in Milan this month, and Marni's way-below-the-knee dresses and grand dame coats with large collars and lapels, paired with elaborate border trimmings, captured that mood perfectly.

Every show by Marni, historically a fur manufacturer, contains many animal skin ideas. This was no exception, with some particularly brilliant mink coats, cut with a hyper plaid pattern or chicly austere slate black leather about town looks. One two-tone duster in mink - emerald above the waist, café colored below - had scores of stylists attending the show immediately scribbling down the reference for future shoots.

In terms of silhouette, the pear shape was the key to this fall 2011 collection by Marni, staged in Milan on Sunday, Feb. 27.

"Yes, I wanted to concentrate on a round shape, but always with asymmetrical hems," said Marnis' designer Consuelo Castiglioni backstage, before mentioning that her big inspiration was the staging aesthetics of American ballet dancer and choreographer Martha Graham.

Castiglioni likes to cut the sleeves of dresses and jackets well up the arm, lending a stately unflustered quality to a woman. However, as these are clothes for winter, this presents a practical problem. How do you keep your customers warm? Well, rather than leggings, this show was crammed full of "armings," with a wide selection in everything from goat hair and mink to ribbed cashmere and fox.

Anchored throughout by a memorable series of footwear - with the star very much some triple layer platforms - and jazzed up with stylish necklaces in hues so weird they reminded one of green or red kryptonite, this was a stellar fashion moment.

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