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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Versace: Posh, Paisley, Sinful Chic

Godfrey Deeny
February 26th, 2011 @ 00:36 AM - Milan

This is the most reined, ladylike season in Milan in many seasons on pretty much every catwalk - except at Versace. When clothes are button-up and prim elsewhere across the city, at the house of Donatella Versace one can enjoy a racy counterblast of sizzling, faintly fetishistic chic - and be all the better for it.

The Versace show, staged Friday, Feb. 25, took place over a reassuring paisley carpet, but then that squiggling pattern was reproduced on saucy cocktails and punchy wool coats.

Sexual allusions rippled through the collection, from neck chokers on mini dresses to laced up dominatrix boots to flirty split kilts, yet always with the right dose of femininity to render the effect pretty, rather than kinky.

The designer also mixed in some smart military detailing, from corporal's loops on army great coats, to Napoleonic cavalry officers coats, though finished with some brilliant modernist anthracite leather.

Made in bold hues of fire engine red, turquoise and canary yellow, this was not a quiet show; but neither is Donatella Versace a quiet designer. Above all, it felt very much like her embracing the house's own gutsy, haute gamme heritage of her brother Gianni.

"I wanted a pure Versace moment and a great soundtrack, which is what I got," said Versace, explaining that rock star Prince had sent her a brand new song, which DJ Frederic Sanchez had mixed into the brilliant show music.

The show also underlined the importance of a stylist in fashion. The top end of the industry, at least when it comes to honing a designer of brand's image, has been for the last two decades obsessed with the role of stylists, who edit, act as a sounding board or carefully distill the ideas of a designer into a coherent show.

Stylists are paid anywhere from a few clothes or $1,000 for their services by fledging designers to $50,000 or much more to style a major league brand.

Ordinarily, the influence - and the fees - of a stylist is over-exaggerated, their remuneration far more due to the nerves and insecurity of sensitive designers, than their input into shows. On Friday in Milan, however, we really saw a stylist earn his check, when Joe McKenna, helped sculpt and filter a very fine Versace collection into a timely, redolent and concise message. Versace really rocked this season. Gianni would have been very proud.

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