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.

Fendi's Conceptual Cut and Paste Chic

Godfrey Deeny
February 24th, 2011 @ 5:09 PM - Milan

Fendi presented a highly conceptual yet thoroughly chic collection on the morning of Thursday, Feb. 24, in Milan where the staging, presentation, clothes and accessories have rarely been more in synch on any catwalk.

Inspired by German artist Kurt Schwitters, a Dadaist active in the '20s, the clothes rhymed visually with a marvelous staging - a 60-yard long catwalk and backdrop made of a striking collage of paper, linen, cement, wood and faked scrap signage, featuring faded version of the house's logo and name.

For fall 2011, Fendi's design duo of Silvia Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld whipped up mixed media clothes to match the arty setting, dramatic ensembles of ribbed wool, layered furs, see-through chiffon and felt, felt and more felt. Call it cut and paste cool.

Fendi's big idea was a sassy item of sartorial furnishing a sort of shell, or coquille, made in felt or fur combinations that twisted like a cravat down from each model's neck. Finished with large costume jewelry pearls and brooches and worn over semi-transparent blouses the look had tremendous elan.

"Fur is hair, so one can make implants," Lagerfeld joked.

Felt was also used to great effect in some large boxy totes that will be sure-fired best sellers and highly influential on next autumn's trends.

Even the more far fetched ideas - including an inside out gray, lemon and salmon macro patchwork coat - even if way too much, were longingly theatrical all the same.

Coats were made inside out, with lots of exposed seams and cut with large volumes, inevitably perhaps when using materials like felt and fur.

Art critics dubbed Schwitters art works, Psychological Collage, and there was a surrealist quality to this show, where the combinations of unexpected materials had a hallucinatory effect.

After a show that echoed ideas from a century ago, Lagerfeld sneered at the continuing use of '70s references in many shows in New York, London and Milan this season.

"This retrospective of the '70s is lasting longer than the decade itself, and I should know, I lived through those years. They were not a politically correct time, so to see them in our politically correct age makes them look like costume time!" he said with a laugh, pounding the sketching table in his backstage office with his black leather gloved right hand.

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