Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Viktor & Rolf’s Surrealist Spilt Suits

Godfrey Deeny
January 21st, 2011 @ 00:37 AM - Paris

The split suit, or dividing up the classic men’s combination by varying the fabric from top to bottom, is not a terribly new idea, but it was given a wickedly memorable surrealist spin in the latest menswear collection by Viktor & Rolf, presented in Paris on Thursday morning, Jan. 20.

This was a chronological show, in the sense that it began with a model in pajamas, next in white boxer shorts, black knee socks and confident white shirt before gradually developing a succession of suits. When they did emerge they were lean and crisp, rather like the designers themselves - Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren.

After coordinating many looks, like featuring a crimson T-shirt and red tartan shoes with a blood orange red wool suit, they began splitting the suits with various contrasts in this fall 2011 collection. Pants in ribbed jerseys and jackets in similar but thicker material, trousers in corduroy and jackets in a wider cord – the later paired with contrasting corduroy boots, again in a different thread size – or jackets paired with long-john style pants, the duo riffed on the whole concept with considerable aplomb.

“We were discussing what exactly is a suit? It’s two pieces of clothing in the same fabrics, and I suppose the masculine uniform. But we thought let’s look at it in a different way, let’s break it up, and be a little surreal, which there is always a touch of in our collections,” Snoeren said.

The designers’ other smart move was some great tailoring tricks around the collar, most spectacular a tulip neck sheepskin coat that will look great in editorial pages.

V&R have always been able to stage clever shows, but too often their men’s collections seemed a tad too quaint, i.e. charming but somewhat insubstantial. Not this season, where they presented a plausible yet quirky wardrobe of men’s clothes that was thoroughly modern and complete.

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