Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Zegna, Technical and Chinese

Godfrey Deeny
January 19th, 2011 @ 00:11 AM - Milan

One thing that will always set Milan apart from any other fashion season for men’s clothes is the sheer technical bravura of many of its great houses, of which we received a timely reminder on Tuesday, Jan. 18, when viewing the pioneering collection of Z Zegna, the last important show of the four day season.

This collection’s smartest trick – a brilliant new technique called needle punch knit, where two separate pieces of material are attached with a micro stitching. This method was used with considerable aplomb in a series of gutsy leather over cashmere jackets, all of them button-less thanks to hidden magnetic clasps.

Very superhero and futurist detective in style, they were sculpted like some sort of historic monument to a cosmonaut or sky trooper. Needle punch knit also played a key roll in some great new knits, finished with erratic cable detailing, a major Milan trend.

That said, the collection was if anything a tad too experimental – massive chunky coats and bulky padded jackets were certainly novel and intriguing, but they seemed a tad out of step with the lean aesthetic of Z Zegna’s highly talented designer Alessandro Sartori. And maybe a different setting could help this brand better express its uniquely modern vision.

Z Zegna, the avant-garde top line of the Ermengildo Zegna men’s fashion empire, was merely following in the steps of this highly self-confident company. On Saturday, Jan. 15, the house staged fashion first Live D runway show, hiring a major league Hollywood technician, Steve Leman of "Avatar" fame, to create a virtual China in the house’s high-tech headquarters in south Milan.

“China is the project our generation, not just the next couple of years,” CEO Gilo Zegna said, adding that company would add a further ten boutiques in China this year, and boast over 100 there by 2014.

Projected models appeared to walk along the Great Wall of China or past Shanghai’s legendary Bund, before they appeared on the actual catwalk in a show entitled “In the Mood for China.”

Using traces of a famed Chinese mural, the show climaxed with great panache – a series of tuxedos and dress shirts, all in silk and using the imagery. Let’s hear it for a smart new statement of global chic.

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