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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Burberry Prorsum’s Virtual Reality

Godfrey Deeny
January 15th, 2011 @ 10:43 PM - Milan

It never rains but it pours goes the old adage, which was very much the case at the latest runway collection of Burberry Prorsum, staged early evening Saturday, Jan. 15, in foggy Milan.

The entire Travertine style runway of this fall 2011 show – the first men’s wear collection made immediately available for sale on the Internet to consumers - was deluged in heavy rain at the finale, as a score of male models marched underneath the artfully staged downpour. Considering that Burberry’s most famous single item of clothing remains the trench coat, that all made lots of sense.

All the guys were attired in see-through plastic raincoats, which bounced the fake shower all over the front row, featuring the two stars of the brand’s latest ad campaign - U.K. models Cara Delevingne and Jacob Young.

“Thousands and thousands of people watch our shows via the web, in the comfort of their own homes, or bedrooms, in 24 different time zones. So I thought the shower would sort of anchor it in one specific place. A little bit of reality before the virtual,” explained Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey after the show.

Given that Bailey’s designs were going to be immediately available, there was some expectation that he would send out a fairly classical collection. Anything but. The catwalk featured one of his most experimental collections in many seasons – an array inspired by '60s advertising posters he discovered in the house’s extensive archives.

What worked best were great broad, though short, coats in window pane checks worthy of Canadian trapper or inflated duffle coats with large toggles all worn over slim, almost sculpted pants.

The designer also introduced great new ideas in footwear, a brogue meets brothel-creeper where black leather wingtips or moccasin tops met tractor tire white rubber soles, and hefty, zippered boots with contrasting amber soles. They all looked great and will be highly influential.

There were fewer bags than one typically encounters on a Burberry catwalk, but the new carpet-bagger style weekend version in a wool felt with broad vertical stripes, and some trimmed nylon totes all looked suitably snappy - hip yet hyper-practical, very much in the Bailey aesthetic.

But the real news in this show was all the fur – either faux or real – from dramatically sculpted gentlemanly coats with arms and torso paneled in curly rabbit, to a sensational Aran sweater whose front was finished in strips of ecru mink. Throughout the show models wore also sorts of faux and real fur flat caps, playing on the discrepancy between virtual and genuine, a clever signature to a path-breaking display of men’s fashion.

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