Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Givenchy’s Chic Sorcery

Godfrey Deeny
October 05th, 2010 @ 00:30 AM - Paris

A devilishly wicked and elegant collection, a posh gothic moment and a diabolical soundtrack were the most prominent memories of the latest Givenchy runway show, staged Sunday night, Oct. 3, in Paris.

Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci’s intentions were clear from the opening look, when he sent out the world’s number one catwalk model, Russian Natasha Poly, in a long, dark black wig with blood red lipstick, wearing pencil pants and a layered top of chiffon, mini leather bomber jacket and white gentleman’s vest - all very "Eyes Wide Shut," sorceress chic.

Before a front row of Justin Timberlake and Courtney Love, out of the speakers blared a mega volume remix of King Night’s diabolical “Salem,” as the models marched by in armies of the night black leather jackets in erratic padding, ribbed corsets with lots of see-through panels or deep gorge leopard print shirts in chiffon. The mood was hyper elegant, yet also threatening. The models were high-powered temptresses – slinky and seductive.

Tisci is such a great tailor and cutter that the whole show looked super new. Take a series of breastplate tops held on with multiple straps and done in shards and flower twists of tulle – ideal for an editorial, awards ceremony or just very chic dining.

One of his favorite skills, careful button placement, was evident in the way metal badges, knobs and pins were patterned into the shapes of crosses in many looks.

In terms of staging, the show was not a triumph – the awkward catwalk, the juxtaposition between the clothes’ dark glory and the high-school gym show-space clanged – and never quite took off.

Made mostly in black, flesh and leopard, the collection climaxed with Poly, in a second passage, wearing a remarkable faux leopard coat where the pattern was outlined by mini chains. Rarefied, demanding on most women’s bodies and defiantly elitist, Givenchy under Tisci is not an obvious fashion recipe for many women. But the designer’s singular vision and stubborn attachment to it makes his collections top ten events – as this spring 2011 show was. In a word, more troubling than triumphant, but still pretty brilliant.

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