Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Celine: Work Wear for the Clever

Godfrey Deeny
October 04th, 2010 @ 00:59 AM - Paris

The single most influential collection in the world six months ago was from Celine, designed by Phoebe Philo, so little wonder anyone of any influence and ambition in fashion attended the spring 2011 show of this Paris brand, staged Sunday, Oct. 3, at lunchtime in a giant indoor tennis court.

In response to her last beige-colored collection, boutiques worldwide suddenly were packed with light brown. In a tongue-in-cheek move, Philo ordered her latest runway to be made of beige – a telling commentary on her influence.

Whether or not this collection will have the same sway remains doubtful, though Philo will probably ignite a gigantic global trend for larger pants. A series of long, slouchy, deep pocketed trousers, the pants that this designer wears herself, were the heart of this show. Finished with broad contrasting seams and slim, tied fabric belts, they looked sure to be commercial hits, and highly significant in terms of next spring’s fashions.

Philo paired these with oversized surgeon’s smocks in lots of leather, odd for a spring/summer collection. A series of North Africa print silks tops, some brilliant men’s shirts reinvented with all sorts of smart tags and extended backs and a finale of several jumpsuits all looked elegant and faintly workerist. Her clothes are eminently chic, practical and saleable – no other show in Western Europe allots as many front-row seats to buyers as Celine. The collections are an unquestioned hit.

That said, Philo’s Celine collections seem ultimately rather melancholy, the models have particularly sour faces and there is little sense of joie de vivre. Adding to a less than jolly mood, the huge glass roof of the space – ideal for illuminating tennis matches – was completely covered in black tarpaulins. For fashion historians, the location is faintly mythical as it was the site of some of the greatest collections of Helmut Lang – probably the most influential designer of the '90s – who chose it precisely because he only showed his collections in daylight.

This season, Philo left an intriguing blue-tinted magazine featuring Arcadian French seaside images on each seat; the previous two seasons she laid on beautiful coffee table books of her own collections of fine photography. And it was hard not to contrast the zest and insouciance of the publications with the downbeat mood of the clothes. Philo made her reputation at her previous job at Chloe for a brilliantly evocative feminine aesthetic. Somewhere along the line she has lost a little of that at Celine.

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