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Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


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London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Lanvin’s Hyper Sophistication

Godfrey Deeny
October 02nd, 2010 @ 10:46 AM - Paris

Lanvin’s latest runway show staged in Paris on the evening of Friday, Oct. 1, had everything a fashion spectacle should have – fabulous clothes, impeccable casting, near-perfect execution, great music and a wonderful sense of magical surprise.

Ordinarily, one can always find something to fault in any show, but it would be difficult to do so with this event, even if a Friday afternoon downpour, resulting traffic snarl and late arrival of hundreds of damp fashionistas meant a 70-minute delay. Among the tardy was impeccably dressed French Culture Minister Frederic Mitterrand, sauntering to a front row that included Janet Jackson, Jade Jagger and Elettra Rossellini.

Yet that only added to the sense of anticipation as the first models appeared almost out of the infinite on the massive catwalk of Halle Freyssinet, a disused railway depot in east Paris.

A hyper sophisticated collection, where every woman could find a lot to wear, was greeted with a roar at its finale more typical of a Las Vegas prize fight than a fashion show when Lanvin’s designer Alber Elbaz took his smiling bow.

Marching to a magisterial soundtrack of hard trance and '60s British Pop by hipster Paris comic and off-beat DJ Ariel Wizman, each model sported their outfits with enormous pride. There was an opening trio of red carpet screen goddess Fortuny-style halter neck gowns with chunky amulets, then a a series of brilliant centurion’s wives dresses, dissected vertically – jersey on one side flowing satin on the other – and horizontally with huge belts. Last minute editing led Elbaz to jettison a score of high heels, so many models walk in revamped Roman sandals.

“I saw several girls tottering around the backstage, I said you, ‘you know what? nobody is going to stumble in this show.' I wanted beauty but practical beauty. So we had three raincoats, and this was the day for them,” Elbaz said, as the rain beat a rhythm on the station roof.

Elbaz also opened a new page in his oeuvre, radically reducing the draping and using a far flatter cut and silhouette - one that will be aped and copied worldwide. Great shows have a sinuous quality where each set of ideas links almost organically. This did too. So, next up Elbaz went slinky and sexy with ruched chess piece looks – one, a lime top with a black mini, caused a collective gasp. Next came some remarkable short dresses that looked like they were made out of fine metal brushes, a trio of flowing microfiber trench coats and final flourish mini cocktail dresses embellished with crystals.

It proved to be a false finale, as a quintet of beautiful black models appeared in volcanic and floral prints jumpsuits – the single most elegant image seen in any show this past four weeks of collections. It elicited prolonged applause, as did this show, a singular fashion moment, a unique display of good taste and stylistic novelty. It was the season’s best show, and collection.

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