Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Dries Van Laurent Light

Godfrey Deeny
September 29th, 2010 @ 5:02 PM - Paris

With the influence of Yves Saint Laurent now stretching into yet another major fashion capital, Paris, it was revealing and aesthetically pleasing to see the late great designer’s impact on a major talent showing here, Belgium-born Dries Van Noten, a colleague who has always freely admitted his debt to the French master.

Perhaps that’s why this spring 2011 collection, staged Wednesday, Sept. 29, seemed so pleasing to the eye. Of all the shows seen in New York, London and Milan before this one, none intermingled YSL’s references with such subtlety and with such admirably chic results.

“All of us are pretty much influenced by Yves Saint Laurent, his fashion was so strong, his presence filters in everywhere," said Van Noten. "I’ve always said that about my work, and there was a few more references this season; the tuxedo, transparency and the masculine element.”

But where others did pastiche versions of YSL – think Marc Jacobs, to name just one – Van Noten let the influence simmer gently, using it in his own downtown hipster way.

Take the mannish tailoring, which in this show meant double-breasted jackets so large they functioned as dresses, and sleeves so long they all had to be rolled up, even on six feet tall models. Saint Laurent was famed for empowering women by putting them in trousers; Van Noten’s stripped away cargo pants were so large they were almost architectural, and empowering. And the Belgian designer also distilled the master’s color palette too, though in faded floral prints, inspired by Chinese porcelain, and employed with great skill in silk, semi-sheer tops.

Van Noten was also the third major European designer to play on ideas seen in his June menswear show – specifically dip-dyed denim wrap jackets and loon pants that had a neat street-meets-chic attitude.

However, the collection was not an outstanding one judged by Van Noten’s recent string of major shows. It had elegance and understatement, but little panache and there was no real feeling that this show would influence fashion, as his recent collections have. The clothes were definitely new, but the applause at his bow was somewhat insipid, rather like wishy-washy music that accompanied the show.

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