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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Jil Sander: Neon, Nylon and New

Godfrey Deeny
September 25th, 2010 @ 8:24 PM - Milan

Hot neon and hyper acidic colors don’t immediately suggest subtle femininity, yet that’s exactly the mood they managed to convey in the spring 2011 collection of Jil Sander presented Saturday, Sept. 25, in Milan.

Electric roses, super shiny oranges and hard violets were just some of the score of shiny surfaces that dazzled through the collection. Nevertheless, the mood was feminine throughout.

Even if he fully respected the minimalist tailoring traditions of the famed house, founded in Hamburg, Germany but now based in Milan, Jil Sander’s creative director Raf Simons took the label light years away from original somber color palette.

Though the clothes were attention grabbing, the cuts were delicate. High skirts flipped over like petals at the waist, or evening dresses were cut like ripe bulbs. Organic shapes dominated and prints were of magnified irises or peonies.

Roman purple nylon work jackets finished at the back with reflected stripes, enlarged safari jackets with mega pockets and posh trenches with multi panel backs all looked like sweet commercial successes.

“I’ve always done neon at Jil Sander, but this season I wanted to take it a bit further,” Simons said post-show. “It’s not in its original codes, but I think looks right for Sander today,”

Simons is also the latest designer this season to use lots of ideas from his most recent men’s collection in his women’s collection. Just as Miuccia Prada riffed on the men’s workwear and brogue-meets-brothel creeps shoes from her June men’s show, so Simons used the same sleek micro nylon materials and fluorescent stripes from his most recent men’s outing in this collection.

Adding to the futurist ladylike mood, the models sported hot pink lipstick and had their hair pulled back and jelled in chignons. And he was right on the money with two huge trends: mega striped tops and massive sunglasses. Insect-like and mirrored, they were an impertinent contrast to this cool display of ladylike luxury.

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