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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Gucci: From Bourdin to Berber

Godfrey Deeny
September 22nd, 2010 @ 10:11 AM - Milan

Milan fashion season properly kicked off Wednesday afternoon with a slick, snazzy and sensational show from Gucci that began by referencing Seventies chic and ended distilling Moroccan style into polished Italian glamour.

In her best show for Gucci, the house’s creative director Frida Giannini riffed on '70s photographic imagery, using fabulously bold hues - like bitter orange, deep turquoise and Atlas Mountain purple - and infusing a North African sensibility into a memorable spring 2011 collection.

Used in some splendidly cut chiffon pants, smartly draped one-shoulder silk tops and dimpled short skirts, the colors made for a great opening moment. Adding to the snappy mix, Giannini paired these looks with great burnished cooper snakeskin bags and some charming leather Obi belts with horsey woven tassels, a smart reference to the house’s equestrian traditions.

“I was influenced by '70s photographers like Guy Bourdin,” explained Giannini referring to the legendary surrealist fashion photographer.

Giannini then strutted her fresh fashion take via Gucci’s famous leather ateliers with a series of brilliant fringed jackets and great multi-stripe pants in shades of nude that had tremendous panache. They were particularly successful when combined with a burnished crocodile bomber jacket worn by Australian catwalk star Abbey lee, an image that will grace magazines covers worldwide this coming spring. Then the designer ramped up the pulse rate with some high-octane, Mediterranean cocktail dresses, the fruit of a recent trip down south.

“I got inspired by Morocco when I was there shooting our ad campaign,” smiled the freshly blond and finely bronzed designer.

To that end, her finale consisted of woven ethnic dresses of shards of leather, embroidered with gold touches and finished with Berber bracelets and necklaces. It was no surprise too – given her fondness for black – that she even sent out a innovative tuxedo meets jodhpur style evening gown with satin lapels that was a real stunner. Talk about moodily Moorish.

Giannini has been a breakthrough designer for Gucci. Under her helm the company broke through the two billion Euro, or $2.5 billion at current exchange rates, sales barrier; and thanks to her designs and understanding of the Florentine brand’s unique heritage Gucci has also built a phenomenally large high-end accessories business. Today in Milan she broke through in the one area that had still partially eluded her: the runway.

Not that Giannini hasn’t produced some fine collections, but there has rarely been a huge groundswell of approval. That will end with this show, the finest display of haute gamme sportswear luxury Italian fashion has seen in many years.

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