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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

At Burberry Prorsum, From Runway to Closet, Express

Godfrey Deeny
September 21st, 2010 @ 5:26 PM - London

Burberry’s latest runway show, the first where consumers could literally order the clothes directly off an iPad during the event, could also be remembered as the first step in what may soon be known as “Season-less fashion.”

Seconds after sending out the spring 2011 collection of Burberry Prorsum, the house’s creative director Christopher Bailey explained that Burberry’s booming web commerce business had subtly altered his thinking, and aesthetics.

“I wanted to get away from the idea of a strict season. We cater to a global audience, particularly online, and many of them are living in different continents, so the concept of seasons makes a lot less sense,” Bailey stressed after the show, staged Tuesday, Sept. 21, the penultimate day of London Fashion Week.

In terms of fashion, the collection was all about Bailey’s remarkable cutting skills and his ability to meld sportswear with classic tailoring, creating a whole new garment - the biker trench.

Cut in a slew of different takes – from padded leather biker sleeves attached to austere, deep pocketed raincoats, to band officer’s looks with leather biker lapels or funky faux snakeskin rock star trenches in silver – they all looked great. Add on gold spike shoulders, contrasting Pop fluorescent colored patent leather skinny belts and Medieval page layered versions and you had a series of hits.

No designer taps into his own local culture as smartly as Bailey, he rifles through Brit Pop, art and imagery, but with such a clever mix of respect and iconoclastic touches that one leaves a Burberry show with renewed respect for his talent.

That’s not to say that the collection did not have its weaknesses. Bailey is still not a master draper, and his layered chiffon cocktail dresses did not hang with just-so aplomb nor look streamlined enough. Plus his finale of ribbed reptile jackets and colorful leopard cocktails had more than one critic muttering the phrase, "Gucci comes to London," as they exited the show staged in a custom-made tent in a Chelsea art college.

In London, Mario Testino and Sarah Jessica Parker enjoyed the show from the front row, while thousands all over the planet got a live feed in 25 Burberry stores, the latest step in the brand’s "Runway to Reality" project.

Using in store custom-built retail environments with enhanced acoustics and state of the art visual technology, the runway show effectively became a simultaneous virtual trunk show, boosting sales of the collection.

Customers in stores could check out the collection on high definition screens of ten-feet-square, and buy immediately through a custom-built Burberry app, ensuring delivery within in just seven weeks, for the latest step in high-tech luxury impulse buying - and, the birth of season-free fashion.

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