|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Paul Smith’s Tomboy Turn
September 20th, 2010 @ 7:19 PM - London
If New York was all about an edgy new femininity, then London has been enjoying a more mannish moment, most crisply at Paul Smith, where a newly chic tomboy ruled the catwalk.
The U.K.’s most successful designer, Smith is better known for his menswear, and much of his deep knowledge of fabrication, suiting and masculine materials was apparent in this show, staged Monday, Sept. 20, during London Fashion Week.
The keynote look was a combination of pencil pants paired with college kid vertical striped shirt, though topped with posh punk quiffs of hair. But Smith is such a great tailor he then ventured into new sartorial territory with some striking hot-pant meets tailored vest single looks. Made in super fine wool, the sort rich Italian bankers prefer, the models clearly loved these clothes, which were classy and quirky in equal parts.
The American season also underlined the influence of Blake Lively, the blonde star of hit TV series “Gossip Girl,” and her weakness for shorts and hot pants. But it being London, the item was displayed a good deal more tongue in cheek – here, with a club-like background of portraits and etchings, brainy movie producer like shades and broken polka-dot fabrics.
One other great idea was reinventing the classic brogue for women, like mixing leather with malleable plastic or cutting off the backs for a brogue meets babouche, or Moroccan slipper, that are sure to be a hit.
Smith has always been a commercially astute designer, with a great sense of what works at the cash resister. This collection will surely do well, Particularly in his latest store, a women’s boutique, which the British designer trumpeted in a witty postcard placed in each seat.