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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Christopher Kane: From British Royalty to Yukuza Gangster, a Masterful Mix

Godfrey Deeny
September 20th, 2010 @ 3:25 PM - London

Gangsters and royalty don’t normally mix, but they did link up Monday, Sept. 20, in London at the latest runway show of Christopher Kane, one of Europe’s most important young designers.

An arch and intriguing meeting of the prudish and the perverse, this spring 2011 collection intermingled remarkable perforated leathers, dragon and Japanese tattoo prints, acidic colors and the ultimate preppy combo – the twin set – in a show that reminded everyone of Kane’s great off-kilter creativity.

“I was thinking of Princess Margaret and Norman Hartnell designs, with Yakuza gangster tattoos thrown in,” Kane said with a wicked grin backstage.

Staged in an obscure east London warehouse, the show opened with some perforated paisley flared skirts and neat jackets in an edgy reference to Kane’s Scottish origins.

But this was an edge with poise. Kane might be a nervy, risk taking designer but he likes his models patrician. All his elegant casting sported pale, barely there make-up and neatly groomed mid length hair, Park Avenue prep to the maximum. His hemlines were also indicative of this, with everything cut one inch below the knee.

The designer also tapped into Highland chic with a series of revamped argyle style diamond sweaters and twin sets.

But his smartest looks were semi-sheer cocktail dresses in ribbed chiffon at the torso, underwear lace further below. Paired with shiny platforms with rope laces, it was a racy, yet always self-assured image, and one that will be mimicked worldwide.

The clothes got brighter and more transparent as the show progressed. Many of the clothes were certainly demanding to wear, but with enough self-confidence, they will make for a head-turning entrance, an image of pure contemporary chic.

No wonder, then, at show’s end when Kane took his bow, he received the biggest applause of the whole season. He merited at least that.

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