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Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Calvin Klein: Is This as Spare as It Gets?

Godfrey Deeny
September 17th, 2010 @ 10:13 AM - New York

America’s hippest major brand, Calvin Klein, sent out its spring 2011 collection on the afternoon of Thursday, Sept. 16, and the house famed for its minimalist aesthetic unveiled its sparest chic in eons.

It was spare, yet abundantly refined, at Calvin Klein, where Women’s Creative Director designer Francisco Costa played with vertical micro pleated Grecian goddess ideas in an opening series that was clean, cool and collected.

Backed up by a mixture of growling blues laments on the soundtrack, the collection was streamed live online from its setting, the company’s New York central mid-town headquarters.

Working without any prints, Costa concentrated on minimalist volume gowns - sort of cool reverend mother meets shy super heroine – in a series of authoritative looks that one very easily imagined on his cerebral and beautiful front-row of Katie Holmes, Julianne Moore, Kerry Washington, Isabel Lucas, and Elisa Sednaoui, all of whom were dressed in Costa’s designs for Calvin Klein. Newcomer Lucas caused a gang of digital camera armed fans outside the show to go into a photo feeding frenzy.

It was anything but frenzied on the catwalk inside, however, where Costa concentrated on purity of line and form. Shorn of adornment, and cut with an elegant legerity. Even if many looks featured wrap skirts, this was striped down minimalism at its purist.

Costa’s take on Arcadian simplicity in ecru washed silk looked beautiful, as the models eased around the twisting catwalk, and a sudden turn to a more curvy black series in double silks captured the designer’s architectural inclinations. One look, a slim chessman style dress with short sleeves worn by the house’s current advertising star, pouting Dutch beauty Lara Stone, summed up the austere beauty of much this fine collection.

That said, following Costa’s great recent displays with their visual ruminations on structure and architectural detailing, the collection felt like it lacked a little oomph.

Costa is a great designer, but his best work for Klein tends to be done when he injects some conceptual conceit into the clothes. He has a highly original fashion brain, and we did not see quite enough of it today.

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