|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Marc Jacobs' Seventies Chic Revival
September 14th, 2010 @ 1:45 PM - New York
If you ever wanted to see a whole decade flash before your eyes in just ten minutes, then you should have attended the Marc Jacobs show when the seventies raced by in girly, multicolor glory on Monday, Sept. 13, in New York.
Though the collection was quintessentially Jacobs, the designer performed like a visual jazz musician riffing through a whole series of references to the era once defined as the Me Decade.
From hair and makeup that echoed seventies supermodels like Pat Cleveland and Marisa Berenson, to looping jersey prints that recalled revered London mega boutique Biba, to Paris elements like Yves Saint Laurent or Kenzo, the whole show was overloaded with that decade’s extravagant style. Jacobs’ sampling, faint subversion and sense of irony made it all work, for the most part, with a swell sense of occasion.
Staged in his preferred show space, Manhattan’s Lexington Armory, the show boasted a great set – another of Jacobs’ forte. This season it was a giant faux hammered gold chalice, out of which emerged the models, to march at a fierce clip around a huge circular runway. Driving them on was the "Summer" movement from Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons,” hotly remixed by DJ Frederic Sanchez.
Fashion aficionados leaving the show muttered the names of American actress Ali McGraw or French houses Dorothee Bis and Sonia Rykiel, so rife were the play on images of that glamorous era of three decades ago.
“I loved the seventies. They were when I grew up with fashion and fell in love with fashion, and the decade has always inspired me. So using its imagery and ideas seemed just right this season,” explained Jacobs backstage, in between puffs on a cigarette.
Yet, this was very much an historical homage on Jacobs’ own terms, where the models frequently looked like they were heading home at dawn from an all-nighter in a discotheque. Their eyes were circled in black and blue, their hair frizzy and askew.
Many wore what looked liked scraps of leather wrapped around their hips, several boasted huge straw Southern Belle hats in more references to that era, remembered for its egotism and insouciance.
Opening with a long series of looks in hues of plum, peach, violet and burgundy, there were flowing halter neck jumpsuits, layered crepe cocktails and lots of see-through chiffon dresses. Skirts were cut well below the knee, jackets finished with large lapels – big looks for bold moments in life.
By Jacobs’ standards this was one of his least revolutionary shows, yet possibly all the more reason to think it will be highly influential in the fashion industry. It’s as if we should all get ready for the reopening of Studio 54.