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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Diane von Furstenberg: New Graphic Attitudes

Godfrey Deeny
September 12th, 2010 @ 9:22 PM - New York

Diane von Furstenberg presented her first collection created with her latest design director, experienced gun-for-hire Yvan Mispelaere, and the show and clothes were some of her strongest in years.

Inspired by dancer Isadora Duncan, this spring 2001 collection presented Lincoln Center on Sunday, Sept. 12, had a gutsy sense of color combination, the best prints we’ve seen from DVF for at least a decade and a fine use of draping and proportion.

At the finale, Von Furstenberg took her bow with Mispelaere receiving her usual burst of applause from her moneyed socialite fans, though this time her collection deserved every clap and cheer. Leading the applause in the front row were Sarah Jessica Parker, Anderson Cooper and Andy Cohen.

Much of what worked best were Art Deco or cloudy impressionist prints, used in slinky jersey dresses, flowing rompers and T-shirt dresses; but where in recent seasons the famed signature DVF wrap dresses had grown hackneyed, just another luxury staple, this time they sparkled with plenty of punch and poise.

Mispelaere is also a savvy colorist, with the chutzpah to take a few risks – his acid combinations of lime and lemon, or turquoise and violet – in georgette halter necks or jersey tops paired with silk pants, recalled Yves Saint Laurent at his best.

Deep gorge blouses, gathered cool cocktails and hyper feminine party frocks all looked like winners, as the collection managed to combine chic with commercial savvy.

“It all started when we took our first walk together through Paris to see the Isadora Duncan,” the new duo explained in their program notes. Both of them own apartments in Paris, Von Furstenberg on the Left Bank, Mispelaere a loft on the north side, and this meeting of old money continental good taste, with a snappier, more modernist mind-set, got off to a roaring start today in Manhattan.

For Mispelaere, who has been a highly regarded right hand man to both Frida Giannini at Gucci and before that Phoebe Philo at Chloe, it was a sunny moment to take a bow, albeit on a day when a smoggy rain fell all over New York.

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