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Doo.Ri Vision But Not Sound

Godfrey Deeny
September 10th, 2010 @ 4:25 PM - New York

One of the more acclaimed young designers on the New York calendar is Doo.Ri, a singular voice whose skills in draping and sense of modern ladylike attire has attracted something of a following, as the composition of the audience at her latest show, staged Friday, Sept. 10, in Chelsea, indicated.

Senior editors from Vogue, Vanity Fair and The New York Times, and buyers with power pencils from department stores like Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales and Italy’s Rinascente all sat front row to see this spring 2011 collection presented in a dingy art gallery frequently used for downtown shows near the Hudson River.

If what we witnessed on this runway is in harbinger of the future, then prepare for a ladylike spring, when even mini dresses look demure, shirts are buttoned up and the mood deliberately decorous.

Not that Doo.Ri did not show plenty of flesh; her skirts were cut way up the thigh and her hot pants were miniature. Just two days into the current season, the influence of Blake Lively is apparent throughout New York. The blond star of hit series “Gossip Girl” and recent Vogue cover girl is famous for wearing shorts and a slew of versions of these have marched all over Manhattan runways.

What worked best for Doo.Ri this season were the webbed jacquard jackets, stretched suede tops, crepe elongated dusters and a few cable cardigans, one paired with natty eccentricity with silver hot pants.

However, the designer’s choices of flashy kaleidoscope prints in micro pleat cocktails, her predictable bulky extended pants or way-too-much micro plisse dresses were less successful. Above all, one had the impression of a true talent, who burst onto the New York scene a half decade ago with some beautifully draped collections, attempting to hit too many targets in an effort to be commercial.

One felt, unfortunately, the collection had a tad lost its way, just like the invitation, which featured a meandering micro cut out. Summing up the event, the show’s soundtrack abruptly went silent at the final looks, ironically when playing David Bowie’s classic electronic rock anthem “Sound and Vision.” But as the DJ looked aghast and scrambled for another CD, the catwalk photographers kindly chirped in, helpfully whistling the tune.

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