Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Louis Vuitton’s Imaginary Voyages

Godfrey Deeny
June 25th, 2010 @ 00:43 AM - Paris

Travel, the essential DNA of Louis Vuitton, was the key to the latest menswear collection from the house shown on Thursday, June 24, albeit treks of an ephemeral sort, since most of the journeys that inspired this show were taken in the mind.

Vuitton’s men’s designer Paul Helbers did not actually fly to these places for research, but the virtual visits – ranging from China to the Amazon – led to one of the best collections so far from Helbers.

The designer called this collection “digital bohemian,” but aside from the fact models wore no suits and ties, this was a very patrician view of bohemia.

“I wanted a sense of bohemian travel, an artist on the move,” explained Helbers, after taking his bow with his boss, Vuitton’s artistic director Marc Jacobs. Despite having his left arm in a high-tech sling – the result of an operation of his shoulder – Jacobs applauded Helbers for some 30 seconds.

For Vuitton, Helbers has always focused on sportswear, unlike, say, a rival luxury French house like Hermes, which concentrates on updating traditional clothing.

But, when it comes to sportswear chic, Helbers certainly has an eye for a plausible new way to travel with style, and in opulent materials. Garments like a sturdy, but beautifully cut buffalo hide blazer, parachute silk jackets or cool silk trousers cut like jogger pants, all looked elegant and super comfortable on a long-haul flight. Plus, a black cut shirt in the Vuitton’s classic logo pattern injected a dash of French couture quality.

And, Vuitton, whose meat and potatoes remains bags and luggage, can expect good business at the cash registers with a great new series of totes and chunky weekend bags in a faded green Japanese denim. You could see the front-row fashionistas eyeing them eagerly. Also likely to be hits were shiny tropical green Damier check backpacks and shoulder bags – just the right blend of insouciance and practicality for which Vuitton should stand.

From Asia, there were Chinese cutout patterned grain leather bags, while from the Amazon there were remarkable lizard pattern boots. However, Jacobs waved off the idea that the Chinese influence was designed to tempt consumers in that market.

“In our experience, if anything, Chinese consumers don’t want our version of their culture. They want a more Western Vuitton,” Jacobs insisted.

Of late, there have been rumors that this might be Helbers last collection for the house. Asked whether this could be true, the designer responded: “That’s certainly not what I have heard!”

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