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Prada Lean but Not so Mean

It’s a telling comment on the mood at the current Milan men’s fashion season when herald brand Prada packs its runway with such strictly cut clothes, but in upbeat optimistic colors.

Under Miuccia Prada, this label has always managed to be a design leader, yet also remain something of an exception. This Sunday, June 20, in Milan, it was both again - creating the slickest variations of the new trimmed down, yet also elongated suit that is dominating catwalks. Yet Prada leavened it with jolts of bright hard colors, the sort one associates with power boat racing or skiing, rather than sartorial chic.

The designer had telegraphed her punches with her invitation – a shiny Amazonian green invite in translucent plastic, similar to the hues that featured on the curious ski goggles several models sported as necklaces. Similar shades, though in more matte hues, triumphed in a quintet of twirling top sweaters at the climax of this clever show.

Almost half the models wore shorts, or even “skorts” – a cross between a kilt and shorts – adding to the colonial gent in the tropics mood, a theme of the current Italian season.

The other smart trick was the latest Prada brogue. It came in patent leather and featured super thick soles encased in thick lengths of rope. A simple idea, but a great look and another example of Prada setting the agenda in terms of style.

As ever, the staging was essentially faultless – a giant, elevated runway in a metallic grid, underneath a similar grid, which was gradually illuminated with thousands of lights as the first model marched down the catwalk. Backed up with a subtly cerebral soundtrack, featuring remixes of Bauhaus’ gothic rock anthem “Bela Lugosi’s Dead,” courtesy of show DJ Frederic Sanchez. It seemed an ideal accompaniment for a show that starred Milan’s best suits so far – putty and pale beige single-breast jackets over lean pants - that had all the energy and poise one associates with this brand.

Backstage, the designer – whose nonagenarian mother died 15 days ago – was in a somber mood. “I am pleased with the collection, yes. But this is not a moment when I feel a lot like talking about work,” she politely demurred.

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