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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Calvin Klein's Capes for Cool Guys

Godfrey Deeny
June 20th, 2010 @ 00:01 AM - Milan

The design leader of the modernist moment in men's fashion today is Italo Zucchelli, an Italian designing for Calvin Klein, where he evokes the energy, hard edges and technology-packed life of urban citizens for this American brand.

In a Milan season where so many other designers are showing colonial chic with rumpled linen suits and blazers in jute, Zucchelli presented taut, frequently cropped clothes with hard high-tech finishes, albeit in a spring 2011 collection leavened with sportswear touches.

“Graphic, clean, strong, New York!” trumpeted Zucchelli after the show, held on Saturday, June 19.

Though Italy is suffering from floods and heavy rains in Milan, Zucchelli is envisaging a balmy summer next year. So much so, many sweatshirts were cropped half way up the chest, the better to see the models' six-pack abdomen. Several of these featured logos, though even the Calvin was cut in half. Part sweatshirt, part micro cape, the garment would be impossible to wear without a flat stomach, but a cool look if one looks like a gym rat.

Many super shiny materials had an almost circuit board attitude finish, achieved by spraying or bleaching cottons. Plus, Zucchelli's use of cool, perforated leathers added to the sense of a hip vice president on a mission to sort out an inter-galactic conflict.

Zucchelli cuts his tailored clothing with a scalpel. His are not outfits for the overweight, but by being so strict with his silhouette he only adds to the sense of high-tech dandy, which is the major theme of this designer.

It's an internationalist's style, just like the company. When Calvin Klein stages a mega presentation of its signature men's, women's collection and the CK line next month in Berlin Fashion Week, it will become to the first U.S. label to exploit that German capital's season to build its business in Europe, and especially in the old Soviet states.

Technology aside, one of the best looks, however, was a great suit in black and white plaid, though with the check so huge it looked almost like an abstract painting. It had sass and cool swagger, just like this innovative collection.

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