Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Yves Saint Laurent’s New Corporate Woman

Godfrey Deeny
March 08th, 2010 @ 6:04 PM - Paris

The house of Yves Saint Laurent took a step into a new dimension Monday, March 8, in Paris with a collection the label’s designer Stefano Pilati said was targeted at women in powerful positions.

“Corporate women, ladies in power, women in authority,” Pilati said, after a presenting a sleek yet severe fall 2010 collection before some 1,000 people in the Grand Palais of Paris.

Pilati’s color palette was nearly 80 percent in black, adding to the sense of authority of these clothes. His new lady-like decision maker favors strictly cut black wool jackets and curvaceous to the knee skirts. One model even carried a patent leather briefcase, as if en route for a business meeting.

The designer played around with the shoulders of most looks, adding miniature capes to some jackets, or plastic protection to others. He did have a brief burst of color at the evening wear finale, with crimson pink, violet and emerald, the penultimate look boasting another cape top.

Fur – mostly sable - appeared on many looks, a mini cape on over a check shirt, a striking shawl come breastplate backed by plastic and as the back trim of knobby shoes – all adding to the ruing elite felling of this collection. While elegant and frequently striking, the collection did seem a big step for YSL, as the founder was arguably more known for his seductive clothing, rather than dress for success fashion.

The designer’s other big idea was a coolly intriguing one. He found a whole series of YSL designs in 1970s magazines, cut them out and created costume gold pendants of their silhouettes.

Pilati denied any religious influence in the collection, but the chains and pendants did recall rosary beads, while the headgear seemed almost a nun’s wimple and the buttoned up tops a nun’s habit.

As ever at Pilati’s YSL, the staging was pretty flawless, from the perfectly executed rose-eyed makeup to the brilliant performance by LCD Soundsystem, who played a live set, rising to a wonderful crescendo as the models took their joint final run down the catwalk, looking poised and purposeful and about to chair a ministerial meeting, or push through a takeover bid.

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