Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Valli’s Walk of Shame Chic

Godfrey Deeny
March 08th, 2010 @ 12:37 AM - Paris

If style is grace under pressure, as Ernest Hemingway once defined it, then designer Giambattista Valli surely has it in spades.

Though his Italian manufacturer, the Burani group, went into liquidation last month, on Monday, March 8, in Paris, the designer presented one of the season’s chicest collection in a beautifully slick show that reminded the audience what a great designer Valli really is.

Staged in a disused bank building, the show opened with a quintet of looks were Valli played with volume, most spectacularly in his coats, cut with cape-like shoulders or wide boleros with nine-inch wide sleeves.

But in an age when musicians frequently “sample” tracks and reassemble them into new sounds, Valli’s smartest trick is juxtaposing fabrics that rarely meet in other designers’ collections. His all-white intarsia fur coats in diagonals of goat and mink were remarkable, as were subtly cut cocktail dresses where the tops were of puckered chiffon glower, the bottoms in crunchy looking faille.

Valli also used all sorts of see-through bands, so a dress that began at the neck with boucle wool finished below a semi-sheer panel in clusters of ostrich feathers.

Out from a large draped backdrop the models appeared with black eyeliner like tiny fins at the eye, and boldly tousled bedroom hair.

“It’s a collection for a strong woman, who pops down in the morning from her lover’s apartment to buy cigarettes and then decides she may was well stroll home,” Valli said, explaining the collection’s walk of shame roots.

And, if any designer can boast of a cool "it" girl front row, it has to be Valli, who presented this defiantly elegant collection to an audience that included Brooke Shields.

“I loved it! So fresh, and so elegant,” said Shields as a small posse of security hustled her backstage post show, where a small mob of retailers also appeared, most notably five from the Saks Fifth Avenue department store chain.

Valli may be an independent designer with a bankrupt manufacturer, but he insisted he could meet any orders he receives this season. He currently sells in over 200 sales points worldwide, a highly impressive result for a fledgling house. This beautiful collection will only up that number.

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* Valli: The Coolest Show in Paris

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