Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Givenchy’s Contemporary Cool

Godfrey Deeny
March 08th, 2010 @ 10:25 AM - Paris

Between the big four fashion capitals, there are some 600 runway shows spread over four weeks, ending in Paris this week. But one could hazard the guess that the collection considered the most contemporary of all will be the one by Givenchy, shown in Paris in the gymnasium of a posh public high school on Sunday, March 7.

By “contemporary,” this means clothes that capture the mood of the times, yet also take us several steps further visually. This fall 2010 Givenchy collection by designer Riccardo Tisci did precisely that, by presenting a smart visual vernacular that was all about edgy class, and by creating a tough chic that was also poetic.

Typifying the stylish toughness was the glistening red lipstick that all the models sported, the same sparkling hue used in red gloves or clutch bags covered in clusters of beading and crystals.

Tisci began cautiously, showing the colors and cut that would define the collection: a colonel’s beige coat, cut as a dress and worn over black tights with the aforementioned red accessories or a beautiful negligee dress in red and silvery white lace worn with red tights and laced boots, both of which had great arty raciness.

Then he really broke into new ground with futurist après-ski sweaters that gradually morphed into racy tops when mixed with lace. His nattiest ideas were mixing these with neoprene pants, with high waists and open front zip, adding zest to a collection that the designer said was inspired by skiing and scuba diving.

The designer also knows how to accessorize his fashion with great complimentary shoes, like lace up felt booties that were, once again, tough and poetic.

“I felt it was time, after my five years at this house, for a new direction. These clothes are meant to capture the heights reached in skiing with the sense of nature up close you get diving,” said Tisci, who goes scuba diving annually, most recently off Egypt, in the Red Sea.

Tisci’s other great is strength is his ability to mix fabrics and finishes to create something new like juxtaposing feathers, leather, see-through lycra, neoprene and velvet, often in the same look, such as the velvet, jacquard and marabou feather cocktails that climaxed this show.

Underlining Tisci’s growing reputation, several other designers – Peter Dundas and Alexander Wang – turned up to pay homage to the Italian couturier. Like the audience of 600 at this show, they gave Tisci a long hearty applause at he took his bow.

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