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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


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Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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The Sizzle of Success at Celine

Godfrey Deeny
March 07th, 2010 @ 00:34 AM - Paris

We got a lesson in chic understatement at Celine Sunday, March 7, with the second collection from the Paris house’s British designer Phoebe Philo.

For fall 2010, Philo served up a crafty mélange of 1960s shapes, a soupcon of 1970s glamour and hefty dose of stripped down to the essentials style.

Composed in a dark palate of navy blues, black, with tiny bits of beige, khaki and white and without a print in sight, the collection was hyper practical, and fresh. Philo cut lots of really great felt wool coats, with raw edges, big buttons and lots of subtly subversive details and angles that faintly echoed the early work of Pierre Cardin.

“It was about reducing things, keeping a point of view. It’s not really for a specific woman, but many different women,” explained Philo backstage as she was mobbed by literally hundreds of well wishers.

Like at her debut show for Celine in October, Philo again gave each guest a magazine containing reproductions of her own private collection of photography. Everyone left with their copy, the mix, imagery and mood of the magazine being so impressive. It also underlined Philo’s wide ranging influences; which other designer would position social pages of glamorous 1970s jet set parties right next to grainy photos of punk funk rockers like Ian Dury?

Philo is also willfully different; her spring collection featured several leather tunics, which seemed odd for a warm weather collection; this fall collection boasted a skimpy lace dress, perhaps the most elegant look in the presentation.

Staged artfully in a giant indoor tennis door, redone with curving gray walls and an expensive carpet, and using models with simple pulled back hair and modest pale makeup, the show underlined this designer’s drive to make clothes that are relevant for a modern woman’s wardrobe.

You could see the editor eyeing, and mentally buying, the brilliant sheepskin coats with long patent leather strips, poised white shirts with Edwardian collars, flared at the waist skirts and clever accessories like gold heeled boots and disk buckle belts.

One could quibble and lament that this collection lacked a little sex appeal. It is certainly diametrically opposed to the other current darling of Paris, Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin and his rock and roll flaunt-it-while-you-got-it panache.

However, Celine’s Paris boutique was mobbed this week with visiting fashion followers snapping up its contents.

Underling the new momentum, the house’s president Marco Gobbetti said that the company had pulled all previous product not designed by Philo from the global network of its stores.

Celine will open a new flagship in Shanghai this year, and several shop in shops in China, but Gobbetti also said, “We don’t really need to open many new stores. We have a huge network already.”

And plenty of customers. If any French brand is having a remarkable ride through the recession it is Celine.

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