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Sharon Wauchob: Artily Minimalist Rockers

Godfrey Deeny
March 04th, 2010 @ 12:05 AM - Paris

What a difference a night job makes, as you could see from the packed audience in Paris on Thursday, March 4, for the latest collection by Sharon Wauchob.

A recognized independent talent, Wauchob was appointed in January as the creative director of Edun, the Ali and Bono Hewson founded collection, which French luxury conglomerate LVMH entered as a partner last year.

Wauchob, though very much regarded an indie designer, has built a highly respectable business with her own house, as was testified by the presence off major league buyers from U.S. and Hong Kong department store chains Neiman Marcus and Lane Crawford, respectively. Her shows have always had a cult following, but the buzz from her new position lured a pack of eager new fashionistas.

None of the guests would have been disappointed by what they saw - a finely tailored and cool, sexy fall 2010 collection, staged in the minimalist setting of a large off-white hall in Paris’ Beaux-Arts college. Like the setting, the clothes were Wauchob’s most minimal to date.

Previously, Wauchob’s rocker chic style included lots of strings, shards of fabrics and leather strips hanging from her clothes, but this season she got rid of them all. Yet, the look was still very much in her groove, shredded leather mini cocktails and tunics that wafted just so, brilliant little bomber jackets with indentations, studs and bumps that all looked precise and a fantastic slinky chain mail dress that was so hip, the model wearing it glimmered with pride.

Wauchob, a Northern Irishwoman with a Huguenot Dutch name, is also a deft tailor, and joyously so with her Edwardian collar clubbing coats shown in a layered look over black fur vests, or even more astutely with an audacious double collar on a dimple green leather biker jacket.

“I wanted the collection more, well, cut. But not half cut,” joked the designer, using the Irish term for being the worse for alcohol.

This show was anything but inebriated. Its finale was particularly stylish, when the score of cat walkers strolled proudly as a pack off the runway, for a moment of en masse panache.

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