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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Gucci: Moodily Monochromatic

Godfrey Deeny
February 27th, 2010 @ 3:54 PM - Milan

If any brand best heralds the color coordinated moment seen this weekend in the Milan women’s ready-to-wear runway shows, it is Gucci, whose sleek glamour collection was all about consistency of colors.

Take the striking opening passage in this brand’s fall 2010 collection staged Saturday, Feb. 27, a quintet of sanded beige looks, strictly cut and all matching, either an opening sleek cocktail with tights and shoes in the same color, albeit finished with gold metal bracelets. Later, there was a double breasted coat dress over snakeskin boots and turtleneck, once again in matching tones.

If the house’s creative director Frida Giannini’s instincts are right - and there are few more savvy designers when it comes to predicting consumer tastes – then women will don boots this fall, once again with a matching top, or snazzy swing jacket with major league lapels, and, of course, a matching all purpose bag.

This designer is obsessive about rifling through Gucci’s archives for nuggets of iconic looks that she can then revamp. Her big idea for fall, reinterpreting a smart 1973 Gucci design as a metal hardware motif, looked very fresh.

However, the fact Giannini is so in sync with the house’s signatures means that this collection was almost too Gucci centered, too rooted in the past, and did not take enough risks with newer fashion. No one could fault the precision and finish of these clothes, which had Gucci written all over them, but the element of surprise was lessened as a result.

Moreover, the show lacked drama, and though coordinating one’s color is of-the-moment, it does make the clothes that tad too the same. Plus, the little injection of prints, a series of Rothko-like abstractions, were far too muddy. Though, one had to love the soundtrack, a brainy mélange of Portishead and Caribou Odessa, with a dose of Massive Attack.

Surprisingly, every so often, women’s fashion actually follows men, which is the case this season in Milan. Last month, the men’s shows in Paris featured lots of jackets and coats with arms and torsos in contrasting colors and materials.

This month, the same is happening on the women’s runways of Italy, most successful at Gucci today. Take one powerful ensemble on Natasha Poly, the Russian model who is the star of all the recent ad campaigns shot under the auspices of Giannini. Over pencil pants, Poly looked splendid in shaggy fox bomber jacket with a pale torso and black arms.

“Tailoring borrowed from a boyfriend’s closet,” was how the designer succinctly summed up the daywear in this collection.

Giannini was also right on the money with another trend here, the peek-a-boo, flesh revealing incision in sleek tops and dresses.

And, though Giannini might be faulted for lacking a little audacity, she did sock us with a sensational series of cocktail dresses. One in particular, a broken pattern lace and sequin combo worn by model Freja Beha under a micro fox bolero, gets our vote for the best cocktail of the season, a real head-turner that mixed great technical dexterity with oodles of panache. Charmingly moody, too.

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