Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Jil Sander: Lara Croft Celtic Symphony

Godfrey Deeny
February 26th, 2010 @ 6:33 PM - Milan

There was a double whammy at Jil Sander in Milan this season, a fashion meeting of tailoring and tartan and a commentary on a new stylistic notion of powerful women.

There's been a significant Celtic theme in Italy this season with lots of rugged Highland colors. At Sander, the house's creative director Raf Simons showed a score of tartans in the fall 2010 women's ready-to-wear collection shown Friday, Feb. 26. These were brand new plaids, but looked ever so lived in, almost abstract plaids where the brighter hues faded into darker colors.

Above all, this collection was about sculpting a new shape for driven females. Simons explained that his inspiration was two movies: "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider," starring Angelina Jolie as the iconic comic superwoman, and "The September Issue," the hit documentary about the making of the all-time record edition of American Vogue magazine.

"I wanted something that captured that sort of feminine energy, but never literally. That's why I went for tougher fabrics like tweed, pinstripe, boucle and tartans," Simons said backstage.

The designer paired pretty much all his looks over high-tech road warrior boots, and mixed in lots of transparency - whether minis, or micro shorts - into the mix.

The collection was quite a stretch from the clean, linear minimalism for which the Jil Sander brand is famous. However, there was still plenty of elegant unfussiness, like the purest of catsuits in a menswear chalk stripe fabric, or boyish suits in Edwardian checks.

Simons is also a great tailor, with an uncanny eye for the right mix, like deconstructing a classic blue cashmere coat with shoulders made of pink chiffon.

But his brightest idea was semi-articulated dresses, where interior strips of Velcro gave the cocktails a faintly armadillo feeling, allowing the garment to hug the body yet move ever so slightly as the model walked.

In a word, super heroine feminism at its chicest.

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