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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


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Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

At Calvin Klein, Costa's Modernist Mode Still Reigns

Renata Espinosa
February 18th, 2010 @ 6:34 PM - New York

New York fashion’s torchbearer for sculptural chic, Francisco Costa, stayed the brand’s course with his fall 2010 collection for Calvin Klein on Thursday, Feb. 18.

With a packed house, a live stream on the Web and a paparazzi drool-inducing front row in a week that has been notably short on celebrities – Naomi Watts, Kerry Washington, Helena Christensen, Kate Bosworth and Whoopi Goldberg were all there – the show was a testament to the successful run that Costa has had as the creative director of Calvin Klein since taking the reigns at the house in 2004.

Top models from Calvin Klein’s past walked in the show, including Stella Tennant, Kristen McMenamy, Kirsty Hume, as well as current runway favorites Sasha Pivovarova, Karlie Kloss, Jac and Freja.

A light show and experimental soundscape by Berlin-based artist Carsten Nicolai set the tone for the show of 34 crisp looks that featured the streamlined, technical cuts that are Costa’s signature.

The show opened with an oil slicked black viscose coat with a ballooned out raglan sleeve, a shape that Costa repeated throughout the collection.

Costa’s conceptual clothes are so precise they would seem to require an engineering degree in order to execute a pattern, and thus the cut is usually the star of the show. But for fall, Costa also let texture add a welcome dose of sensuousness to his usual intellectual fare. Shearling popped up on an ivory trench and a midnight blue sequin embroidered silk jersey top had the appearance of bubble wrap. Sleek viscose cascaded like liquid silver on a column dress for evening worn by a silver haired Kristen McMenamy.

Costa also loves a good technical fabric, and here he used double faced wool for coats that were as smooth as a sleek scuba wetsuit and combined rubberized silk crepe with double faced wool in a sleeveless shift.

Though one doesn’t go to a Calvin Klein show expecting the color palette to rock the boat – this season’s neutrals consisted of glossy black, ivory, silver, midnight blue and flint gray – a couple of shift dresses in a day-glo blue had the kind of impact you might imagine the first explorers to the Caribbean would have experienced upon viewing such clear blue waters.

Technically brilliant as always, there was little to fault in Costa’s offerings on Thursday, except to wonder how long he will continue working in this particular modernist architectural mode. For now, a shearling coat is perhaps as postmodern as it gets.

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