Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Ralph Lauren’s Dark Classicism

Godfrey Deeny
February 18th, 2010 @ 11:50 AM - New York

Leave it to Ralph Lauren to best capture the mood of New York, with a darkly classic fall 2010 collection on Thursday, Feb. 18, where even the floral prints seemed photographed at night.

Somber, serious yet ultimately très chic, this was in large part a restatement of Lauren’s patrician cannon, with the most solemn palette in Manhattan – olive, Bordeaux, slate, moss and espresso.

These were very much comfort clothes, and all the better for it – with lots of muddy georgette silk blouses in muddy hues, worn under a score of herring bone frock coats, Chesterfields and cutaway jackets.

Lauren also tapped into a huge trend in New York, the revival of velvet, showing antique velvet jackets in amethyst and a series of great jodhpurs in a mossy green or faded brown. Though, these were jodhpurs with a twist, lovingly cut and finished at the ankle with studs.

His sharpest look was a brown cashmere coat, hand knitted to give it a luxurious softness, worn by Polish beauty Magdalena Frackowiak over slim boyish trousers, that the program notes described as “newsboy pants.”

And, in a formal, and rather proper, New York season it seemed right that there was a sensitively Edwardian feeling to this show, from the cropped romantic jackets to the beaded gowns that wafted by in the finale.

Adding to the sense of haute gamme tradition, the catwalk in the lower Manhattan art gallery where the show was staged was the cut stone sort one would expect to see in a Tuscan duke’s palazzo. Over it all hung three huge black glass chandeliers.

Running through the show were a series of equestrian style belts, with the kind of buckles one is more likely to find at a show jumping event than on a runway, though the collection was all the better for it. The designer took his, charmingly self-indulgent bow, dressed head to toe in black, wearing one these belts himself.

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