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Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


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Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Proenza Schouler: 21st Century Sportswear

Godfrey Deeny
February 17th, 2010 @ 9:02 PM - New York

If some attendees of the New York season this week were beginning to feel uncomfortable about the lack of great new ideas on the ruwnays, along came Proenza Schouler with a stylistic home run, re-inventing the very thing this country is most famous for in fashion, American sportswear.

Re-invention is not too strong a word for what the creative duo of Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, did with this fall 2010 collection, so thorough going was their assault on conventions. A whole series of items – baseball jackets, duffle coats, preppy sweaters, gym skirts, school blazers and Catholic school tights – went through the Proenza Schouler blender and came out new.

Plus, the duo dreamed up some sensational fabrics, by the wacky method of buying lots of plaid swatches and then jiggling them while being photocopied. The resulting mish mashes and squiggles would have done justice to Jackson Pollock or Barnett Newman, and looked sensational on elongated trousers, subverting classic pants, and in a series of super of-the-moment jacquard frocks.

The ideas flowed right from the opening look, the aforementioned pants worn on a great scallop neck duffle coat, but cut as short as a micro bolero; or a leather jacket, the sort a cute teen would wear on her first clubbing, but turned around, finished with an Obi belt and cut way off the shoulders, et voila a great new look.

The mood in the Milk Studios, the 15th Street Meatpacking District loft building that has become the alternative venue of the New York season – 32 shows there this past week – was enhanced by great back-up work from all the creative types collaborating with McCollough and Hernandez. Such as? Well, tremendous, just out of a torrid bedroom, messy hair, courtesy of Didier Malige for Frederic Fekkai, and, in our view, the hippest new casting seen in Manhattan, thanks to Ashley Brokaw.

And, you had to love the high-energy soundtrack, as DJs Michel Gaubert and Steven Brinke created an immense loop of some Brooklyn-based B Girls. The same young ladies, average age 14, watched the show back in their neighborhood, courtesy of a live stream, as their chants; “Hey you girl, Ya want some news!” echoed around the show space.

“We wanted to take American sportswear, and really break it down. Take it somewhere new!” yelled McCollough backstage, as a mob of the great and the good waited to embrace and congratulate he and Hernandez on this first-rate statement of modern fashion. In a word, the most 2010 clothes we’ve seen all week in New York.

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