Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Mercury Rising at Marios Schwab's Halston Debut

Renata Espinosa
February 16th, 2010 @ 2:36 PM - New York

Ever since the latest revival of Halston in 2008, the collections have been less about dramatically reinventing the label’s signature simple, fluid lines, than about holding the course as the brand made their way down nostalgia lane. Halston, of course, was the disco era label of choice for Studio 54 glamour girls.

But for the fall 2010 collection, presented in New York on Monday, Feb. 15, things were different. Much different. After being designed for a couple of seasons by a team of designers, Halston finally has someone at the helm worth shouting about, the London-based Marios Schwab.

Schwab, who has been on London’s must-see list of designers since launching his own label in 2005, is best known for his use of geometric shapes and sexy, body conscious cuts. So he was a good choice for taking Halston into the 21st century, and also entirely capable of keeping the label’s signatures close.

For Halstonettes who still prefer the original, however, they can still get their fix from Halston Heritage, who just signed on actress Sarah Jessica Parker as creative director. Parker, dressed in a gold accordion pleated Halston top, attended Schwab’s presentation on Monday and went largely unnoticed, save for an occasional photo with a fan.

Rather than a runway show, Schwab staged a presentation in a large gallery-like space, with the models arranged in an oval interspersed with convex mirrors, silver cubes and reflective monoliths. The 1978 film “The Eyes of Laura Mars,” starring Faye Dunaway as a fashion photographer, provided visual inspiration for the set. In the film, the title character sleeps in an Art Deco bedroom with wall-to-wall mirrors, and as a photographer, she’s frequently shown on the sets of languidly posed models. The same could be found at Halston.

Schwab also cited “the fluidity and luster of mercury” as an inspiration in his program notes, and these clothes were certainly about liquid movement with every detail carefully considered for that particular piece, whether it was about a vibrant jewel tone, a fabric finish or an architectural effect.

Short dresses in satin chiffons or velvet lame had tulip proportions and fabric was draped and gradually pulled taut like taffy, criss-crossing like freeway overpasses. There were also practical pieces like a knit cape, but in vibrant yellow gold, brushed cashmere sweater dresses with fur sleeves or embellished with computer chip patterns, a narrow pair of pants with asymmetrically placed pleats and a shearling fur tunic. The muted colors of a winter landscape - grey, mink and blush - contrasted with stunning jewel tones.

Refreshingly, each piece was left to speak for itself. In a season when other designers are piling on layers as though preparing for a long camping trip post-apocalypse, there was no madcap styling here. This was all the better to show off Schwab’s impressive sculptural feats, like one taupe neoprene dress with an ever so slightly embossed pentagon emerging like a shapeshifter in the “Terminator” series.

The clothes were nicely augmented with shoes inspired by "geisha sandals and architectural lines" - a “petrol” blue suede tube platform sandal especially stood out. Schwab also collaborated with American jewelry designer Jacqueline Rabun to create rings, futuristic ear cuffs, elbow bracelets and pendants that evoked silver clouds.

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