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Marc Jacobs: Yellow Brick Mode

Godfrey Deeny
February 15th, 2010 @ 8:26 PM - New York

Naivety, albeit of an insider knowing variety, was the theme of the latest collection from Marc Jacobs, unveiled in an all-cardboard setting in New York's Lexington Armory Monday night, Feb. 15.

Jacobs and his long-time partner Robert Duffy debuted the show by marching out and melodramatically pulling brown packing paper off a huge box to reveal 56 models posing inside. Next, with the introductory monologue of “The Wizard of Oz” booming out the speakers and then a cover version of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow,” the models strolled around the maze-like catwalk.

“We wanted a multitude of colors in a very neutral palette; taupe, beiges, light browns,” explained Jacobs, in a post-show press area, where the security staff acted like they were allowing members of the press in to see the President of the United States.

Far from the farm in Kansas, the Jacobs catwalk was crowded with poetic touches, A-line dry wool coats trimmed with fur, gentle cabans cut a tad asymmetrical, cool town coats with Mary Quant scallop lapels.

Jacobs even used lots of fur trim on a great series of handbags, sprouting off lizard bags and faux mink totes. His footwear varied from mini heel snakeskin pumps to more ergonomic booties.

However, being Jacobs, there’s always a major nerd factor, from bookish stenographer glasses to spinsterish capes, and a dress length below the knee.

Keeping things tongue in cheek, the designer also sent out a selection of older, non-professional models including cerebral French stylist Camille Bidault Waddington. A live stream meant some audience members even got text messages from fashionistas as far a way as Australia during the show commenting on the collection, underlining the power of the Internet and drawing power of Jacobs.

He really hit his stride in the finale with a series of beautifully draped iridescent velvet cocktails. One, worn by Swedish model Elsa Sylvan, gets our vote for the look of the season, so refined, elegant and now did she look. And, one could not thinking the song’s lyrics - “Somewhere over the rainbow, way up high. And the dreams that you dare to dream, really do come true” – had happened in that fashion moment before your eyes.

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