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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


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Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


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Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


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Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Zac Posen Reconstructed

Renata Espinosa
February 15th, 2010 @ 5:16 PM - New York

Though Zac Posen may have downsized the runway spectacle that characterized his previous shows at the Bryant Park tents by opting to show in a smaller venue downtown first thing in the morning on Monday, Feb. 15, but his collections have only gotten better as a result.

A more finely tuned, but no less creative Posen strutted out his most wearable looks yet for aspiring girl Fridays, secret agents, ice skating queens and future flight attendants for Virgin Galactic. Everything was leggy, from the polished pantsuits with wide-legged trousers to the kicky skirts and asymmetrically draped mini-dresses.

“1940s reconstruction,” the designer summarized after the show. “I wanted to show all of our construction on the outside.”

Posen’s inside-out concept ranged from dresses that appeared like deconstructed pattern pieces cut from various fabrics and then stitched together, to a blouse that on first glance looked like a printed trompe l’oeil vest, but was actually made of wide grosgrain ribbons carefully folded over and sewn into a diamond pattern. Other deconstructed elements included corset boning placed on the exterior or raw edge seams.

But this was not the deconstruction of, say, Commes Des Garcons, with extra sleeves or radical asymmetry. Ironically, it was more a way to draw attention to the careful construction of each garment.

"I'm playing with clean fabrications and upping the luxury level," he said.

While there were no full-length evening gowns this time around, Posen still found ways to play with volume in ways that were wearable but no less attention-grabbing. Ruffles exploded from underneath a structured jacket, skirts had swing and furs were chubby. An anthracite tech satin jacket kept its shape like a thinly pounded metal sculpture.

Like a number of designers this season, Posen did not shy away from ample amounts of fur. Here, it was fox in vibrant colors like magenta or a blue and copper chevron pattern. But the use of fur that most caught the eye of editors was the tuft that covered a pair of Manolo Blahnik designed heels, a very chic fur bootie.

Posen also collaborated with two artists this season – Rosson Crow, who did some excellent painterly floral prints in vibrant pinks and reds and Yazbukey, Paris-based sisters Yaz and Emel, who designed brooches that looked like the polished cross-sections of exotic minerals.

The classically trained “hip-hop violinist” from Israel, Miri Ben-Ari, performed live music at the show, adding a jolt of high octane energy to the early morning hour. The Grammy award-winning musician played an original composition layered over rappers like Jay-Z. Performing her own musical deconstruction, Ben-Ari was a fitting postmodern musical parallel to Posen.

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