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Y-3 Fights The Power

Godfrey Deeny
February 15th, 2010 @ 10:32 AM - New York

Yohji Yamamoto’s commitment to his famed joint venture Y-3 should never be doubted; he even got into a fight for the partnership this Sunday, Feb. 14, in New York, staging a mock karate match with a professional kick boxer at the climax of the fall 2010 runway show.

Though after knocking out his opponent with some slick karate moves in a laser defined circle, the sexagenarian designer then got slapped down by a tall skinny Danish model Freja Beha.

Unveiled in the uptown Park Avenue Armory, this 2010 fall collection marked a return to Y-3 signature style, after the previous spring, which was all about creating product for the World Cup. French soccer legend Zinedine Zidane even showed up six months ago, taking a series of mock penalties with Yamamoto.

“It was all about returning to the original roots of Y-3. I mean by that elegant sports style,” beamed the gray haired Yamamoto backstage, attired in a gray, anthracite wool Eisenhower jacket and military style pants, just like those that hit the catwalk.

Backed up by a great bluesy guitar soundtrack, the show featured all sorts of mega dark plaid ideas, whether jerkins with the Y-3 logo, cut off pants with elastic cuffs or a brilliantly layered combo with mini motorcycle jacket and rouched dress worn with aplomb by Beha.

The collection also boasted some smart new platforms and heels, with variations on the triple stripe detail that looked like surefire best sellers and a clever new area for growth for Y-3, especially as its partner Adidas is historically a sneaker-driven business. Though, there were also some great sneakers too, especially a splayed sole version, works of modernist footwear sculpture that will be highly influential.

Adding witty tag lines in bold white – one read, “23 Years in Prison – 20 = Y-3” – was another theme in a first rate show and presentation. Though our favorite moment was very much he simplest: a triple-stripe trimmed bolero, T-shirt and black Afghan athletic pants. Talk about a head turning image, and a woman ready to rumble.

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