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Silver Surfer Chanel

Godfrey Deeny
January 26th, 2010 @ 1:00 PM - Paris

We got a ground-breaking moment Tuesday morning, Jan. 26, at Chanel, when the house that invented the little black dress managed to present a brilliant Haute Couture collection without a speck of black in the whole show.

Neither black, nor that other staple of Chanel, deep navy blue, appeared on the catwalk, done up like a space age Art Deco palace.

Instead, the whole show space on Rue Cambon, down the block from Chanel’s headquarters, was silvery; from the banquette seats and platinum walls to the baroque boots, shimmering tights and fingerless mittens worn by every model.

Adding to the outer space atmosphere was the soundtrack, with DJ Michel Gaubert cunningly spinning cuts from Beak, a an off-shoot of a Bristol band that sounded like '70s cosmic music.

Yet, though spacey, the clothes and accessories seemed right for 2010, combining lots of the Chanel signatures, like pearls, but in sexily subverted forms.

Take the amazing shoes, which featured globular, furniture leg heels and pearls as a trim on the sole. Pearls also appeared up top, though not as necklaces but as a back seams of super fine wool dresses or as trim on the back of some glorious bouffant hairdos, courtesy of Japanese expert Kamo.

“I think the clothes are modern, and for today. Not futurist, made for an avant-garde future that never really happens. Anyway, I hate that word avant-garde, as it’s almost the same as 'ringard,' and you know what that means in French,” said Lagerfeld in one of his classic multilingual plays on words. "Ringard" is French for "old-fashioned."

After opening with broad shouldered suits, often with culottes, and segueing into a series of elegant pastel dresses, cut four inches above the knee and trimmed with silver, Lagerfeld suddenly shifted two gears and let the legendary Chanel atelier go to work.

A series of semi-sheer chiffon or pastel chiffon dresses with metallic wrought iron pattern embellishments were simply stunning, the kind of beauty one only gets in Paris.

The couturier took his bow after his token male model Baptiste Giabiconi – in a silver rock star suit and tie – escorted a stunning bride around the catwalk, the audience applauding lustily the precious display.

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