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Lanvin Partnering with H&M September 02nd, 2010 @ 00:54 AM


Coach Opens Ambitiously in Paris September 01st, 2010 @ 00:26 AM


Lacoste Names Oliveira Baptista New Artistic Director August 31st, 2010 @ 1:57 PM


LVMH Heads South in Latest Acquisition July 02nd, 2010 @ 00:12 AM


Hakaan Wins Andam Award June 30th, 2010 @ 11:05 AM


Net-a-Porter Gets Masculine June 10th, 2010 @ 8:02 PM


Brunello Cucinelli Named Italian Entrepreneur Of The Year June 04th, 2010 @ 4:16 PM


Hermes Replaces Gaultier With Lemaire May 26th, 2010 @ 12:56 AM


Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Last 12 Months May 26th, 2010 @ 00:47 AM


Ungaro Names Gilles Deacon Creative Director May 25th, 2010 @ 3:47 PM


Aquascutum Hires Sykes as Design Director May 17th, 2010 @ 00:07 AM


Hermes Scores 18.5 Percent Rise in First Quarter Turnover May 06th, 2010 @ 00:49 AM


Rodarte to Create "Breathless"-Inspired T-Shirts for Film's 50th Anniversary May 05th, 2010 @ 6:05 PM


Gen Art to Shut Down After 16 Years May 05th, 2010 @ 5:40 PM


Jean-Louis Dumas Dead at 72 May 03rd, 2010 @ 00:46 AM


Armani Opens Debut Hotel in Dubai April 28th, 2010 @ 4:39 PM


Japanese/Chinese Bank Buys Stake in Costume National April 22nd, 2010 @ 12:42 AM


Archs Out at Ungaro, Deacon Rumored In April 21st, 2010 @ 11:53 AM


Vera Wang and David's Bridal Announce New Collaboration April 20th, 2010 @ 2:43 PM


Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Latest Half Year April 20th, 2010 @ 00:50 AM



Celine: Chic But No Cigar

Godfrey Deeny
October 05th, 2009 @ 2:45 PM - Paris

What’s the French for underwhelming?

In what was very much the most anticipated show of the season, the elite of the fashion media and all the executive barons of LVMH crowded into a disused bank headquarters in Paris Monday afternoon, Oct. 5, to witness the debut of Phoebe Philo at Celine, one of ten fashion houses controlled by the giant French luxury conglomerate.

In was already a major coup for LVMH to have hired
Philo. When Philo quit her previous position as Chloe’s creative director in 2005, she was widely regarded as one of the half-dozen most influential designers in fashion.

So, the air was thick with anticipation pre-show, heightened by a by the slow rhythmic beat of a bass every few seconds. This was later to speed up and be the soundtrack for the show, a looped remix of a classic house music cut.

However, what hit the runway in this Spring 2010 collection, while certainly abundant with poise and highly wearable, seemed a tad too downbeat.

Philo did tap into a certain idea of French chic for the professional woman, which Celine represents. It was instructive that when every Paris runway is crammed with cocktail party dresses, Philo showed a collection that would look elegant at work and ideal for a business lunch.

She revamped that French classic, the safari jacket, making it in green khaki and cutting it with a scalloped back. And one had to admire her padded leather dresses with jagged hems. But one had also to wonder, what were padded leather dresses doing in a summer collection? Moreover, the colors of the collection – khaki, black, sea blue and off-white looked autumnal, not summery at all.

Philo injected a lot of military details, like office loops and epaulettes. While they added structure, they seemed predictable.

Though Celine stands for a certain notion of haute bourgeois French chic, Philo remains based in London. It felt at times she was forcing herself to fit into a personality that was not quite her own. Whereas at Chloe, the Chloe girl was Philo herself.

Judging by the applause meter, this show was a success. Many stood up and clapped, though they were mostly fellow Britons, or executives in suits and ties. Nor was there a massive rush backstage.

However, the collection was certainly chic, and using a limited palette and relatively few materials Philo did come up with quite a few ideas, but very little fireworks. Philo also left a magazine containing reproductions of her own private collection of photography on each seat, a beautiful product, but oddly enough little of its eccentricity and curiosity made it into the collection.

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