Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Dries Van Noten: Ethnic as the New Modern

Godfrey Deeny
October 04th, 2009 @ 2:58 PM - Paris

Dries Van Noten went back to doing what he does best - colorful prints, ethnic fabrics, modern attitude and a sense that women should be polished but never stiff in their dress.

Last season, Van Noten went rather formal, a smart change of gear, but one ultimately not ideally suited to this designer for whom color is always the key.

But for his Spring 2010 collection, shown in Paris on Sunday, Oct. 4, the Belgian designer ranged around Asia, tapping into Ikats from Uzbekistan, batiks from Bali and chinoiserie from, well, China.

Van Noten also took a few bold risks with his draping, swaddling the opening looks with Balinese prints, cutting dresses so they fell flatteringly, yet with enough volume to forgive the less than ideal figure.

The designer also worked closely with museums in Japan and his native Antwerp, researching original fabrics and re-creating them, frequently with artisans in Asia, but avoiding the banal Photoshop effects of lesser talents.

But what’s best about Van Noten is that he takes the ancient to reconfigure the new. So his strong shouldered boleros in mega patchwork of Chinese leaves and plaids, or impressive loose plantation pants all looked fresh. Van Noten also showed clever platforms with contrasting heels in metallic skins, and again they felt right for now.

Juxtaposing metal finishes, lacquer, abstract Chinese silk and remarkable all-black plaids, this collection looked like a very subtle new step for Van Noten.

“We’ve been to India and that gave me the idea of really working with the sort of resources that are rare today, hand looms and artisans whose skills are very antique,” explained Van Noten.

Van Noten is one of the fashion industry’s best colorists at the moment. He shows amazing skill at combining shiny yellows with subtle greens or even curry. No matter how daring or off-limits the combination; Van Noten pulls it off masterfully. He is now the most inventive designer by far when it comes to creating memorable prints.

It helped that the staging was suitably arty yet authoritative. Show producer Etienne Russo discovered a charmingly wrecked bank lobby, in the midst of reconstruction and boasting dramatic images of industry worldwide. It seemed an odd, but telling, comment on the current recession to visit a bank that showed Socialist Realist mosaics in its headquarters.

“Authenticity,” was Van Noten’s response when asked to define this collection. These clothes were all about rediscovering the renewable past in order to see a cooler future.

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