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Sophia Kokosalaki’s Sophoclean Chic

Godfrey Deeny
October 04th, 2009 @ 00:56 AM - Paris

It was all about one’s origins at the Sophia Kokosalaki show in Paris on Saturday, Oct. 3, where the Greek designer delved into her country’s archaeology and architecture to create a collection of considerable contemporary grace.

Kokosalaki’s clothes nearly always evoke a certain Greek sensibility with multi-pleated dresses that remind one of fluted columns, belt buckles of classical frieze details and her colors of archeological remains.

For Spring 2010, Kokosalaki added a higher quotient of sex, notably a semi-sheer belted leotard look that was classical yet brazen and worn with aplomb by Abbey Lee, the pierced-nose Australian model who is very much the look of the moment on European catwalks.

Though rooted in her own culture, Kokosalaki is not out of step with contemporary trends; her petal shaped mono-color silk tops and dresses were very in step with a major move by designers to imitate plant shapes in ruffles, trim and one-shouldered items, in an extended ecological moment.

And, while the collection has a light, hyper feminine feel, the designer anchored each look with some excellent platforms, with twisting golden stem heels, just like the gilded illustration on the show’s otherwise black invitation. Bold, spiral bracelets and askew, morning-after hair added to the tougher attitude on display, which reached its zenith with a remarkable ruched mauve leather dress with heart shaped neckline that really rocked.

“I was into investigating the architecture of my country, and visiting Byzantine churches, said Kokosalaki, particularly referring to her last, and best, look, "then coming up with my own vision of what I saw.”

That skimpy mini and pearl-encrusted black bolero jacket, inspired by the mosaics and church ceilings, was a truly beautiful finale.

If Sophocles ever came back and threw a post-show cocktail party after a performance of Oedipus Rex, this is how the ladies might appear.

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* Nine West Unveils Sophia Kokosalaki Collection


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