Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Yohji Yamamoto’s Groovy Governesses

Godfrey Deeny
October 03rd, 2009 @ 3:35 PM - Paris

Difficult women, the sort that used to be locked away merely for being different, were the inspiration for the latest women’s ready-to-wear collection by Yohji Yamamoto, staged Friday evening, Oct. 2, in Paris.

Their hair bedraggled and covered in dust, their eyes covered in wacky squares of makeup in blue or green, their lips rouged but with blackened mouths, the models marched angrily out on the small wooden catwalk in the designer’s European headquarters in central Paris, in a small, intimate show.

Yet amongst the crazy ladies were clothes of considerable poise, from the sublimely cut white men’s cotton shirts made with off the shoulder neckline or another cut like a frock coat.

If there was a single professional ideal for this collection, it is surely that of governess, though one estranged in an ancient Transylvanian castle, where the count is a Japanese poet.

Even a leather bomber and a slate gray linen coat were cut like straightjackets, so evident was the sense of derangement. Yet, overall, the mood was typically poetic Yamamoto, albeit with a large dose of sex appeal, like the saucy black mini skirts that one glimpsed beneath the governess coats.

As the show continued, more and more looks were riddled with holes, until a final quintet of micro prairie flower print looks that seemed positively moth-eaten.

“It’s about women being difficult, behaving like bitches,” explained Yamamoto, dressed in a white lab coat, splattered with paint and ink, like a mad scientist just emerging from his lab.

Yamamoto also showed very stylish, small granny black shoes, with studded toes and heels in a show attended by Michele Norsa, president of Salvatore Ferragamo, with whom Yamamoto has a footwear joint venture.

They seemed ideal for creeping around the scientist’s castle at night, candle in hand.

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