Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Rue du Mail: Masterly Mature Chic

Godfrey Deeny
October 01st, 2009 @ 2:28 PM - Paris

After a Milan season characterized by an obsession with sexual frivolity, the opening day of the Paris season included the runway show Rue du Mail, a French brand that does sexy, but with a brainy attitude.

Hemlines were high, V-necks plunged almost to the navel and plenty of flesh was on display, yet this Spring 2010 collection, presented Wednesday evening, Sept. 30, in central Paris, never teetered over the edge into vulgarity.

This collection had a sense of bright-witted glamour in spades – whether the calico cocktails, mini dresses with sequined bras or gauzy plissé skirts, there was just enough delicacy to keep things elegant.

Rue du Mail, the fashion collection of designer Martine Sitbon and whose flagship and headquarters is located on the Paris street of the same name, is very much an insider’s label, where subtly, not sass holds sway. The two best examples of that were brilliantly draped inside-out trench coats where there was an uncanny sense of playing tricks with perspective, like a three-dimensional Escher print.

Above all, there was a sense of expert self-confidence about this collection, right up to the models’ hair, which Sitbon made gray, adding a certain sense of authority and making models like Iris Strubegger, Kinga Rajzak and Kim Noorda look like sizzling intellectuals.

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