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“Soutien Gorgeous” Fendi
Godfrey Deeny
September 28th, 2009 @ 10:38 AM - Milan
“It’s the new ‘soutien gorgeous’ look,” said Karl Lagerfeld backstage after unveiling the Spring 2010 Fendi collection in Milan Sunday morning, Sept. 27, in the pony-tailed polyglot’s play on words on soutien gorge, French for bra.
Models wearing transparent and semi-sheer silk mini dresses, granting a hot yet ethereal silhouette and ramping up the sexy element to this impressive collection, sported a series of “soutien gorgeous” bras.
Where often Fendi shows seem to exist in an aesthetic movement of their own, avoiding the major trends of any moment, this season the house was right in sync with the most important item of apparel to international designers at the moment – the bra.
Bras peeked through lacy tops, nearly off the shoulder cocktails and black negligee dresses - all them looked great.
“It’s about new clothes, but taken apart again,” added Lagerfeld, referring to all the frayed hems – another major trend – and sense of clothes pulled apart right as they came off the sewing table. The unraveled and revealing clothes also seemed a metaphor for the current zeitgeist, a longing for transparency given the murky financial roots of the current economic crisis.
Even the label’s current best-selling bag, the Peekaboo, was toughened up this season by being unlined. And what were the key materials in the super high-heel that underpinned the show? See-through, nylon stocking fabric and completely transparent Perspex.
The Roman luxury house also presented a great new, high-end hippie bag with embroidered fringe that dovetailed with the current desire for authenticity.
This show also contained one of the best looks so far from the cities that have staged spring seasons, New York, London and Milan, a wonderfully tattered all white cocktail dress, with ragged threads and missing stitches. Call it an ethereally racy take on see-through fashion and great door-opening look. Just like most of this collection.
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