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Jonathan Saunders' Pastel Abstraction

One of the half dozen most eagerly awaited shows in London Fashion Week is that of Jonathan Saunders, whose arty, elegant clothes are among the most contemporary available from a U.K. designer.

Saunders went for pastel abstraction this season with a series of dresses and coatdresses, in a Spring 2010 collection, shown on Tuesday, Sept. 22, where the absence of any jackets was noticeable.

Saunders biggest, and best, idea was developing collage prints, as if he had juggled around scraps of color paper on a board before Photoshopping the result to make his novel fabrics.

Before an audience that included Anna Wintour and Thandie Newton, Saunders sent out a palette of dusky pinks, worn silver, blotched grays and faded oranges, making this collection the one with the most inventive fabrics of any so far in the UK season.

Saunders might be faulted for his lack of grown-up tailoring – there were no jackets in this show - but when it comes to draping a cocktail dress, he is a master. His ability to chose the right tuck, dart and fold was highly impressive.

The designer said he had been inspired by the Swedish horror movie "Let the Right One In" and “the colors of Scandinavia,” but out on the catwalk the mood reminded one far more of the faded shades of painter Jasper Johns.

Saunders came a little unstuck at night where his color block columns did not really flatter many gals and thigh-high side cuts meant columns swung around like wind-blown flags. But he righted himself with his three final looks, little black dresses with arty targets on the torso that were very new, and very chic.

The best thing about this very fine collection was its edgy beauty, the models looked ethereal yet suitably modern, wonderful dates for some lucky Lotharios.

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