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Burberry Goes Global with 3D Runway Show February 08th, 2010 @ 00:45 AM


Hermes 2009 Sales Up 8.5 Percent; Wholesale Biz Plummets February 05th, 2010 @ 00:34 AM


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Esprit Turnover and Profit Dips; Cash Hoard Leaps February 03rd, 2010 @ 10:34 AM


The Body Comes to Paris February 02nd, 2010 @ 11:49 AM


Etam and Natalia Hit Paris Catwalk January 27th, 2010 @ 00:00 AM


Altuzarra, Peter Hidalgo Tie as Top Women's Designers at Rising Star Awards January 26th, 2010 @ 12:23 AM


Armani Accuses Dior of Lacking Respect January 20th, 2010 @ 12:04 AM


Sarah Jessica Parker Signs On to Halston January 14th, 2010 @ 4:00 PM


Milan Prosecutors File Burani Bankruptcy Request January 12th, 2010 @ 10:34 AM


Ecco Domani Names Foreign-Born Talent January 04th, 2010 @ 6:01 PM


Eco Beauty Genius Yves Rocher Dead at 79 December 28th, 2009 @ 00:21 AM


Paris Stepping Up Pre-Collection Market December 18th, 2009 @ 12:19 AM


Ungaro CEO Moufarrige Quits House December 16th, 2009 @ 11:00 AM


Tom Ford’s "A Single Man" December 15th, 2009 @ 10:27 AM


Gucci Masters – From Nightclub to Paddock December 14th, 2009 @ 00:58 AM


New Gen Picks: Katrantzou and Pilotto December 11th, 2009 @ 10:19 AM


Hilfiger Inks Deal with Debt Laden Safilo December 11th, 2009 @ 00:00 AM


Bailey Wins BFC Designer of the Year Award December 10th, 2009 @ 00:08 AM


Martin Margiela Leaves The Company He Founded December 09th, 2009 @ 10:21 AM



Jonathan Saunders' Pastel Abstraction

Godfrey Deeny
September 23rd, 2009 @ 00:29 AM - London

One of the half dozen most eagerly awaited shows in London Fashion Week is that of Jonathan Saunders, whose arty, elegant clothes are among the most contemporary available from a U.K. designer.

Saunders went for pastel abstraction this season with a series of dresses and coatdresses, in a Spring 2010 collection, shown on Tuesday, Sept. 22, where the absence of any jackets was noticeable.

Saunders biggest, and best, idea was developing collage prints, as if he had juggled around scraps of color paper on a board before Photoshopping the result to make his novel fabrics.

Before an audience that included Anna Wintour and Thandie Newton, Saunders sent out a palette of dusky pinks, worn silver, blotched grays and faded oranges, making this collection the one with the most inventive fabrics of any so far in the UK season.

Saunders might be faulted for his lack of grown-up tailoring – there were no jackets in this show - but when it comes to draping a cocktail dress, he is a master. His ability to chose the right tuck, dart and fold was highly impressive.

The designer said he had been inspired by the Swedish horror movie "Let the Right One In" and “the colors of Scandinavia,” but out on the catwalk the mood reminded one far more of the faded shades of painter Jasper Johns.

Saunders came a little unstuck at night where his color block columns did not really flatter many gals and thigh-high side cuts meant columns swung around like wind-blown flags. But he righted himself with his three final looks, little black dresses with arty targets on the torso that were very new, and very chic.

The best thing about this very fine collection was its edgy beauty, the models looked ethereal yet suitably modern, wonderful dates for some lucky Lotharios.

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