Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Calvin Klein’s Solemn Architecture

Godfrey Deeny
September 17th, 2009 @ 5:07 PM - New York

Architecture seemed the key theme that ran through the latest women’s ready-to-wear collection from Calvin Klein on Thursday, Sept. 17, where the globular forms, biological shapes and technical finishes recalled modernist building styles.

The house’s women’s designer Francisco Costa has always been obsessed with volume and form, and his signature materials are frequently pretty high-tech, but the way fabric jutted, twisted and curled around the body in this collection were highly reminiscent of new hotels and corporate headquarters by architects like Zaha Hadid and Frank Gehry. Indeed, the pale grays and soft whites used in the show were uncannily similar to the IAC headquarters on the Hudson River, designed by Gehry.

But what matters more than their inspiration is the clothes quality and style, and this collection had lots of ingenious ideas – like their striking silhouettes, where shoulders blossomed, jackets flared and hemlines drooped. They had an striking sense of the new, without being too bizarrely novel, and you just knew that any of the front-row stars – Eva Mendes, Thandie Newton, Molly Sims and Kerry Washington all attended – would happily walk out of the show space in most of the looks on the runway.

In terms of materials, this was one of the most innovative shows in New York this season, boasting stunning mixes of crinkled silk, metal mohair and lots of needle punched organza. Yet, while the fabrics looked stiff, they never appeared uncomfortable.

Costa also introduced some great new Geisha-like shoes, where sandals straps sat above long block soles. These worked particularly well with some beautiful washed silk A-line dresses in soft hues of citron or coral.

Backed up by a hyper minimalist soundtrack, at times as simple as a heart beat or the hiss and crackle of an amplifier being turned up, there was something rather solemn about this show, and indeed the clothes. Though fashion is frequently regarded as a frothy and funny industry, this show felt like serious business.

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