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Narciso Rodriguez: Minimalism in an Age of Less

One thing you always have to admire about Narciso Rodriguez is that he’s got such a strong signature style – a streamlined minimalism that seems effortless but is actually very tricky to realize. That was very much the case in his spring 2010 collection – a fluid, unfussy modernist statement where the designer let his typically strict silhouette blossom - presented Tuesday, Sept. 15, in New York.

Architectural shapes have stretched all over the New York catwalks this season, but while highly structural, Rodriguez’ shapes more often reference the curvature of flowers and stems, rather than buildings. In a sense this was the only true attempt at voluptuous volumes in town this season, and all the better for it.

Rodriguez may well be best known for his mono-color items but this season his best looks were floral printed, sleeveless tops and cocktail dresses, which injected an artily cool air. Rodriguez is also rather brilliant at using transparency – either in inserts, or in subtle layering - to create clothes that are romantic rather than just racy. Most designers get this wrong, Rodriquez’ dream-like aesthetic means he never does.

His oeuvre is clean yet authoritative from the wonderful tulip shaped coats in a muddy silk to the delightful pink crepe cutout dress on Russian beauty Natasha Poly.

Moreover, probably no show in Manhattan this week had as much poise as this event. Models’ sped by with super elegant chignons, courtesy of Edmundo Castillo, to a grandiose rocking’ track by spin master Frederic Sanchez.

That said; Rodriguez’ Latino minimalism while happily sensual seemed a tiny bit out of step with the current controlled opulent zeitgeist. Minimalism in an age of plenty makes sense, but less does seem far less when each of us in 2009 seems to have, well, that bit less.

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