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Vera Wang: Poiret Party People

Vera Wang titled her Spring 2010 collection “Partying with Poiret,” referring to early twentieth century French designer Paul Poiret, who emancipated women from constrictive undergarments with loosely draped dresses and pants. “Poiret, not literally, but in my heart, like the way he partied all the time and he loved to throw parties,” said Wang after the show in her bright white boutique in downtown New York on Tuesday, Sept. 15.

The collection was about playing dress up in an unselfconscious, celebratory way that had the romance of an epic love poem combined with the eccentric horror of Poe.

“I think that adventurous spirit in fashion is what happened a lot in the Twenties, with Chanel dressing women like men, and Poiret dressing women without girdles and without bustles, wearing softly draped things, and [Elsa] Schiaparelli – they were all of that era and a certain freedom started to happen on into the Thirties,” said Wang.

Though it was a spring collection, it didn’t mean that Wang didn’t embrace decadent layers of black tulle, textured with ruffles on a shift dress or in the frayed pleats of a short skirt. For Wang, it was about expanding the possibilities of the materials, which took on a couture-like level of craftsmanship in the detailing.

“We threw away at least a quarter of million dollars worth of fabric,” said Wang. “In this economy, that’s kind of embarrassing, but I really wanted to evolve the technique. We tried sewing it, we tried washing it, starching, double washing and cutting it on the bias. I think we ended up with about one-twentieth of the fabric we started out with in the design room.”

Along with the loose silhouettes of crepe de chine shifts and an elegant playsuit, Wang also layered sheer organza skirts, like ballerina tutus, over black knit athletic shorts – perfect for those marathon nights out. Sequins, spidery silver beaded bibs and a jeweled bolero were the candied centerpieces of Wang’s delicious accessories.

“Part of that is because I dress myself that way,” explained Wang. “I mix things up. I like taking clothing out of context. You can wear big jewelry or fabulous rings, and then you can wear shorts.”

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