Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Carolina Herrera’s Basket Case

Godfrey Deeny
September 14th, 2009 @ 11:39 AM - New York

If anything summed up the aridity of the current New York fashion season it was probably Monday morning’s Carolina Herrera runway show, a hodgepodge of hackneyed ideas, half baked and yawningly executed.

Inspired by Japanese baskets this collection was as dull as a night class in weaving those products, a curiously uninspired series of rather lumpy looks, outfits that, to use an old fashioned termed, were pretty much all dress makers caper.

Among the weaker items were an absurdly over-wrought ivory raffia looks that flared out like inverted squashed flowers, redwood hued jacquard dresses that bulged out - adding dozens of pounds to several skinny models - and chiffon columns finished off with redundantly bothersome embroidery. Rope weave cotton jumpsuits or straw-like cropped jackets all reminded the audience that this was a collection straining to fit in with its modest source of inspiration.

And just as the bloom has gone off the American economy, so it has disappeared from Herrera’s color palette – faded roses, pale caramels and insipid ambers. Though the designer sent out a cast of top catwalk models, by staging the show under a murky, boudoir light few of the girls had any sense of joie de vivre. Irritatingly bubbly samba samples on the soundtrack only added to the sense of a designer grappling for ideas in a stalled economy.

But, above all, there was sense that this show underlined the formulaic responses of so many designers this week in New York to the long-term recession. Instead of offering customers something bold, new and exciting, designers have retreated into predictable clothing whose main selling point appears to durability rather deftness.

Let’s recall that on her day, Herrera can be one of the classiest designers anywhere on the planet, capable of creating patrician elegance of rare poise and precision. Sadly, not today.

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Fashion Wire Daily: The Last Word in Fashion

* Carolina Herrera Launches in L.A.

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