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Charlotte Ronson: Deliciously Downtown Street Chic

We got the unexpected return of acid wash in the latest collection of Charlotte Ronson Friday afternoon, a fabric, at least to the Continental mind, synonymous with impoverished Eastern Europeans, but one that, in hands of this designer, enhanced an impressive collection by a talent who has found her creative groove.

In terms of cut, attitude, detail and finish this was a striking at bat by Ronson, whose growing maturity was clear throughout.

Whether raiding her boyfriend’s wardrobe or infusing biker trim or playing with proportions or borrowing the odd item from an indigent Pole this spring 2010 collection marked an notable new stage in Ronson’s development.

One had to admire the whole opening section – acid wash leather mini vests, sleeveless Edwardian coats with Obi waists, semi-sheer leggings or slinky jersey tunics, that all combined for a look that was very now and very cool.

Ronson is also an impressive self-editor – her use of studded shoulder pads, biker zips and golden metal belts was model of self-restraint, adding an injection of oomph, yet keeping the clothes credible.

The finale earned prolonged cheers from the audience of 800 as the models traipsed down the catwalk in Bryant Park, the central Manhattan show space where about half of the New York runway shows are staged. But the warmest applause was for the solo turn of smiling shyly sister Annabelle, who appeared in a criss-cross black bra and zippered shorts.

One can recall the odd zealous critic deriding Ronson – a Briton who has spent most of her life in New York - as a self-taught ingénue who never attended fashion school and thus, allegedly, lacked the skill sets to be a designer. That judgment seems unfair today after this show, where this autodidact seemed well in step with the current edgy, moody lady zeitgeist that infuses American fashion. In a word, it was all deliciously downtown.

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