|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Givenchy: Out of Africa, Into the West
June 27th, 2009 @ 00:58 AM - Paris
Part meditation on street style, part meeting of Africa and medieval Italy and split down the middle between razor-sharp tailoring and urban attitude, the latest collection from Givenchy confirms its designer, Riccardo Tisci, as one of the most important working in menswear today.
Shown Friday afternoon, June 26, in Paris, the Givenchy men’s collection for Spring 2010 began with a sharp-eyed lesson in how to create the modern gent’s wardrobe - surgically cut suits made of micro mesh jackets and exact officer pants that made for a jaunty opening.
Gradually, Tisci introduced graphics, bold black cutouts on white dress shirts and pants, or Moorish prints, where Marrakech dudes met Parisians dandies.
This is a designer with a deeply fertile imagination, so he can easily combine a Bronx biker in shorts silhouette with an off-duty medieval Tuscan soldier mood. While not that many men will wear gold sequined chain mail tops with cowls topped by baseball hats worn backwards, as an image it looked great.
And, surely the whole point of Givenchy is to cater to a high, avant-garde elite, who’ve got the guts and panache to wear clothes with gusto, like the brilliant all black dhoti jodhpurs and valet jacket with gold studded vest outfit that was a tough wear, but a great fashion statement.
Where colleagues in Milan and Paris have opted almost universally for a groomed, privately educated look for their models this season, Tisci sent out a savage casting – frequently behemoths compared to other designers' scrawny youths – and the show was all the better for it. Adding a does of celebrity, Madonna’s current boyfriend, Jesus Luz, strutted his stuff in a Moroccan top with gold embroidered, red tartan shirt tied around his waist.
Backed up by a great Frederic Sanchez show track of Atlas mountain drums and the theme music to “The Cook, the Thief, His Wife and Her Lover" by Michael Nyman, this was a great, punchy romantic hit.
“African but also urban, tough chic but also sensual,” said Tisci backstage, wearing shorts, thick black knee socks and numeral logo T-shirt. “I have to support my own ideas by wearing them,” he said.
One also could not help admiring how elegant the Givenchy staff looked in Tisci’s clothes, all of them in black, whether in frilly blouses, austere leggings or exact military tunics.